Alternatively, if Mommy likes the vino, considering taking her out a day or two earlier to catch the end of the Santé Wine Festival. Friday night, chef Anthony Sedlak will be grilling up a storm at the Santé Down Under BBQ at Hart House, and then Sunday, the popular Sip, Savour and Shop and Sip, Savour and Learn events will take over Yorkville, leading up to a gala evening event at Hazelton Lanes.

The full list of happenings for the next week follows below, and as always, our Events page has more information on these and many other upcoming events in Toronto and area.

Friday May 9th

• Funk’n’Chocolate - Canadian Corps Legion, 201 Niagara Street
• Green Gastronomy Dinner with Michael Olson - c5 Restaurant, Royal Ontario Museum, 100 Queens Park Circle
• Santé Down Under - Hart House, University of Toronto, 7 Hart House Circle

Saturday May 10th

• Introduction to Organic Gardening and Permaculture - High Park Children’s Garden
• May Festival of Chefs [also on May 11] - Cheese Boutique, 45 Ripley Avenue
• Meet the Maker: August’s Harvest - Culinarium, 705 Mount Pleasant Road
• Santé: Elevate Your Senses - How to Taste Like a Pro - LCBO Summerhill, 10 Scrivener Square
• Santé: Sip, Savour & Learn Sessions - Park Hyatt Toronto, 4 Avenue Road
• Santé: Celebrating the 10th on the 10th - Hazelton Lanes, 55 Avenue Road
• iYellow Celebrity Wine Tour - depart/arrive at Vineyards Estate Wines, 228 Queens Quay West
• Spirit of Toronto - Roy Thomson Hall, 60 Simcoe Street

Sunday May 11th

• Green Gastronomy Lunch with Michael Olson - Food Studio, Royal Ontario Museum, 100 Queens Park Circle
• Mother’s Day Cream Tea - Spadina Museum, 285 Spadina Road
• Mother’s Day Tea - Madeleines, Cherry Pie & Ice Cream, 1087 Bathurst Street
• Mother’s Day Royal Brunch - Casa Loma, 1 Austin Terrace

Monday May 12th

• Ontario Wine Society New Kids on the Block Tasting - University of Toronto Faculty Club, 41 Willcocks Street

Tuesday May 13th

• Schloss Schönborn Estate Rieslings - Toronto Board of Trade, First Canadian Place (Adelaide Street Entrance)

Thursday May 15th

• Local Heroes: Ontario Wine - Coupe Space, 998 Queen Street East
• New Zealand Wine Fair - Design Exchange, 234 Bay Street

Handsome devil Corey Mintz scores himself the cover story at Eye with a piece about the Ontario Food Terminal. More extensive than the piece he wrote for us back in November, it’s a detailed look into a foreign place that most of us will never see. In the review section, Alan Vernon and Sean Kelly Keenan check out Terroni on Adelaide.

At Metro, Sandy Caetano reports on the coast to coast expansion of Cora’s breakfast chain, and Marcy Cornblum interviews comedienne Debra DiGiovanni about her favourite foods. Billy Munnelly looks at French wines and their new popularity. And for those who still haven’t figured out what to do for Mother’s Day, there’s a recipe for cranberry-topped pancakes. Just don’t make Mom clean up after you.

When the essay arrived in my email inbox, my first thought was that it completely and utterly exemplified the rude, snotty attitude that we, as customers, fear from restaurant servers, and that has given particular areas of town a deplorable reputation in terms of restaurant service. (Okay, actually, my first thought was that it was a huge joke, because I can’t strip the little faith I have left in humanity to believe that there are people out there who think like this.)

Aside from the fact that I find the attitude in the piece to be utterly deplorable, pretentious and judgmental, there are a few points I wanted to address from the customer’s point of view.

I’ve worked enough retail jobs to know that the customer isn’t always right, and I’ve worked in enough kitchens to know what bitching and moaning goes on when a special order comes in. (You, with the food allergies – are your ears burning?) But the fries/salad issue always struck me as so silly – it isn’t as if customers are asking for half filet mignon and half lobster.

Half-fries Half-salad is one of the many occupational hazards of serving. The person that orders food this way is joyless; caught up in some of the worst aspects of consumer culture. Ordering Half-n-half is a struggle between ordering what you want (fries) and what you probably should have (salad). The cultures of beauty and image have made enjoying a leisurely burger and fries on a patio nearly impossible.

No, see I’m not joyless, because I’m getting half fries AND half salad. My world is pretty full of joy. I’m not concerned about beauty and image (uh, what?), and it IS just a “leisurely burger”. It’s not world peace, dude, or anything that requires a grand philosophical debate. I like fries, I like salad, sometimes I have one or the other, sometimes I want some of each. There’s no need to overanalyse it – or judge people because of it.

Ordering Half-n-half is also a sign of the individualized culture of entitlement that has started to ruin dining. Eating a meal is about sharing an experience with a friend or with what the Chef has concocted for the menu. Ordering half-n-half is chaotic and self-involved.

Oh puh-leeze. Seriously. It’s a burger, not the 14-course tasting menu at Susur. The customer, at least when ordering the burger, really doesn’t care about “what the chef has concocted for the menu”. If they did, they likely wouldn’t be ordering a burger or a sandwich. Try as we might by stacking them with truffles and fois gras, a burger is just a burger - it’s not haute cuisine.

Ordering half-n-half ensures that you will not get enough fries or salad to make you happy, ultimately leaving you unsatisfied with your meal.

That depends entirely on the size of the serving, doesn’t it? There are plenty of places that offer (yes! OFFER!! with no whining, fussing, rolling of eyes or hand-wringing!)) half and half, and send out huge honkin’ servings that completely satisfy. (We love you, Epicure!)

Ordering half and half is inconsiderate to servers who have to communicate that order to a fast-paced kitchen.

Ah, see, here’s the truth to it. It’s not about culture and beauty, or the downfall of society, it’s that we’re making more work for the servers. And while it’s true that most servers work their butts off and have to deal with a lot of crap in the average workday (customers who drink too much and tip too little, loose children, dine-and-dashers), it seems to me that the stray order for half and half should be just another bump that they’re able to coast over smoothly. In the grand scheme of things - is it really THAT big of a deal?

So as a server, and a person studying society, it seems that ordering Half-fries Half-salad is a spectre hanging over the restaurant industry.

A spectre hanging over the restaurant industry????? Okay, see, now’s about the time when I’ve gotta think this guy is taking the piss out of us all. We had an old saying back in my alt.gothic days that applied to the overly dramatic whiners. “Hand – staple – forehead.”

Surcharges: If a restaurant charges one or two dollars to make this substitution, diners would understand That this is a special request. This would also reflect food costs that might be incurred by having wasted half-orders of food that were not used in a day.

You know what’s even more annoying that servers who whine about half fries/half salad? Places that are so fucking skeezy as to charge extra for it. I’ve worked in restaurant kitchens. Potatoes and yer basic mesclun salad mix represent some of the cheapest ingredients in the place. Again, it’s not as if someone is asking for half steak and half lobster. Fries and salad are not peeled or washed to order. It’s also not as if these items are pre-portioned and there’s going to be a huge pile of half-orders at the end of the night. Even if they are pre-portioned (where are we, McDonald’s?) the most that will be left over at the end of service is half an order of each. Basic math. And I’ve yet to work in a kitchen that threw out any unused potatoes or salad mix at the end of the night unless it was already rotten. That shit just goes back into the walk-in for the next day.

Share: Come with friends. If you both want a bit of both, why doesn’t one person order fries and the other order greens?

And if my dining companion doesn’t want to share? Seriously, kitchen staff are not stupid. They can figure out half of a basic side of fries or salad. And customers shouldn’t have to share to accommodate a server more interested in judging them than in doing his job.

Order what you want: Let’s face it. You want crispy, golden, double-fried Yukon golds and you want to smother them in ketchup or mayonnaise or malt vinegar. You deserve it. Going out is a treat. Stop punishing yourself because some lifestyle magazine shows you a person with six-pack abs eating a 20oz. steak. Live. Be Happy. Eat!”

This contradicts itself, so I’m not sure what our server friend is trying to say here. Is he pushing us toward the fries to avoid having to send a half/half order to the kitchen? Or is he backing down and genuinely telling customers to “order what you want… you deserve it”? regardless of whether he approves?

Ultimately it comes down to this – it’s not about the downfall of our culture, it’s not about beauty and image. It’s just some potatoes and a little bit of lettuce. We’re not asking to replace that salad with truffles and steak, and it’s not that huge a deal for the kitchen to do – otherwise there wouldn’t be places that offer it outright – with no “annoyance surcharge”.

My prodding of this issue, in encouraging Lauren to go back and find out WHY a half/half order makes Mr. Hayden so upset, was never really answered. The essay rings hollow and is more a series of limp excuses than a true explanation. It’s speculative at best, and as far as I can see, it mostly boils down to him just not wanting to. So there. Nyah. All the philosophy and cultural theory is just meant to distract from the lack of a real reason and work as an excuse for someone to judge others and complain about the people who keep them in a job, all the while demonstrating the attitude that gives servers in our city such a bad reputation.

In an effort to peek behind the scenes of the perhaps-not-so-well-oiled-machine of food service, I sat down with Christopher Hayden, a self-declared waiter par excellence who has worked in some of the city’s hottest restaurants. What came of the interview was an interesting conundrum: while many in food service consider themselves professional and take their jobs quite seriously, many whom they serve do not.

Just as hosts and chefs attempt to create ideal experiences for their clientele, it seems we foodies are becoming more and more controlling of our own dining destinies - placing custom orders, ordering off the menu, and attempting, in no small way, to get our money’s worth from our high-end eating experiences. In the piece below, Mr. Hayden offers his take on the fussy foodie, and in particular, on the dreaded “Half-Fries, Half-Salad” order. Is it reasonable to ask for what we want in our city’s fine restaurants, or have we gone too far? Are we simply being wise consumers, or are we no better than spoiled toddlers? In an effort to bridge the gap between those who love good food and those who love to serve it, we welcome comments from the readership on the themes presented here.

Half-fries Half-salad is one of the many occupational hazards of serving. The person that orders food this way is joyless; caught up in some of the worst aspects of consumer culture. Ordering Half-n-half is a struggle between ordering what you want (fries) and what you probably should have (salad). The cultures of beauty and image have made enjoying a leisurely burger and fries on a patio nearly impossible.

Ordering Half-n-half is also a sign of the individualized culture of entitlement that has started to ruin dining. Eating a meal is about sharing an experience with a friend or with what the Chef has concocted for the menu. Ordering half-n-half is chaotic and self-involved. While proponents might argue that they are making a choice. Ordering half-and-half is admitting you cannot make up your mind; it is a choice not to choose. Ordering half-n-half ensures that you will not get enough fries or salad to make you happy, ultimately leaving you unsatisfied with your meal.

Ordering half and half is inconsiderate to servers who have to communicate that order to a fast-paced kitchen. A kitchen that is putting out hundreds of covers- beside yours- can be train-wrecked by the smallest detail; like an order coming back because an order needed to have a little more green on it.

So as a server, and a person studying society, it seems that ordering Half-fries Half-salad is a specter hanging over the restaurant industry. It is quite possible that the Half-n-half phenomenon reflects many negative shifts in capitalist culture. While I know I can’t kick people out for ordering this way, I do see some alternatives that will help to compromise.

Surcharges: If a restaurant charges one or two dollars to make this substitution, diners would understand That this is a special request. This would also reflect food costs that might be incurred by having wasted half-orders of food that were not used in a day.

Share: Come with friends. If you both want a bit of both, why doesn’t one person order fries and the other order greens? This means you will have a good amount of each side to share because the person plating in the back isn’t worrying about putting the half the amount of something on your plate.

Order what you want: Let’s face it. You want crispy, golden, double-fried Yukon golds and you want to smother them in ketchup or mayonnaise or malt vinegar. You deserve it. Going out is a treat. Stop punishing yourself because some lifestyle magazine shows you a person with six-pack abs eating a 20oz. steak. Live. Be Happy. Eat!

At the Toronto Star, Kim Honey interviews a couple who are making artisanal oils right here in Ontario, Honey also shares the secret of Gordon Ramsay’s risotto, while Josh Rubin dances with the devil in a bottle of Duvel. There’s also a recipe for pasta with asparagus.

Rob Mifsud gets all science-guy with molecular gastronomy chef Hervé This at the Globe and Mail, while Vikram Vij advises us to eat less, by preparing smaller servings and buying food fresh each day instead of packing the fridge to overflowing.

In wine talk, Leslie Gevirtz looks at the popularity of vinho verde and the plan to work the same magic with Portuguese reds, and Beppi Crosariol interviews wine merchant Pascal Marchand.

Also, Sue Reidl checks out Tiger Blue, an Okanagan Valley cheese similar to Stilton and Roquefort, Sara Minogue find mussels in Nunavut, Rebecca Dube explores our hormonal drive to eat stuff that may not be so good for us, and Pauly Shore is the Sunday Dinner guest. Leslie Beck offers nutritional advice to parents of kids with ADHD - it might just be allergy-related. On the west coast, Alexandra Gill reviews local, organic, sustainable restaurant Aurora Bistro.

At the National Post Ben Kaplan comes to the defence of arugula, Shinan Govani remarks on the quantity of Buddhas at newly-opened Spice Route, Malcolm Jolley gets excited about an egg slicer, and Amy Rosen looks at pairing oysters with red wine,

The tender and moist slow roasted beef brisket ($6.50) takes 5 days to prepare at Black Camel (Rosedale Location: 4 Crescent Road). Choose to pair it with the house made Black Camel BBQ sauce, and/or any additional toppings (i.e. roasted sweet red peppers) for an extra $0.75.

MBCo (Toronto Yorkville: 100 Bloor Street West, Unit #7) serves up many delicious treats that are available to dine in or take out, such as the oven roasted breaded chicken & brie sandwich, which has a generous chicken cutlet, fresh herbs, spinach, and braised leeks stuffed inside lightly toasted bread.

Turkey lovers should check out Pusateri’s (57 Yorkville Avenue) for a large croissantwich or ciabatta filled with turkey, blueberry cream cheese, bacon and mixed greens.

Even heartier still are the massive hot sandwiches that can be ordered at California Sandwiches (244 Claremont Street), where two breaded pieces of chicken or veal may be topped with hot peppers, roasted peppers, mushrooms or even fried eggplant! Dunked in a bath of marinara sauce the golden beasts are a little messy to eat but extremely delicious.

A trip to T&T Supermarket may resulting in some “fill”-ing sandwich finds. Specialty buns may have a heart of BBQ pork, tuna fish or even pork floss with preserved mustard greens. These cheap finds are maybe a little pricier than the standard Asian bun, however they are packed full of intense fillings which make it well worth the extra 50 cents.

Can anything be more delightful than a puff pastry topped Chinese bun filled with pork floss like those found at Jin Cheng Bakery Ltd. (various locations)? Mmmmmm.

Turkey is reincarnated at Easy Restaurant (1645 Queen Street West) as the turkey club on toasted baguette ($10.50). Perfectly cooked (neither too crispy nor soggy) bacon is piled on top of fresh sliced tomatoes, smoky lean deli turkey, and peppery baby greens. The later is supported by both the chipotle mayo and the chili oil-spiked rosemary roasted potatoes which brings this sandwich to another level. Delish!

The Gyros pita ($4.05) at Messini Authentic Gyros (445 Danforth Avenue) features pork meat shaved from a spit and served in a pita topped with onions, tomatoes, Tzatziki and freshly cut French fries.

Renée Suen is a graduate student at the University of Toronto, specializing in cardiovascular sciences. She has an insatiable appetite and can often be found with her camera, searching for something tasty to eat. Many of these culinary discoveries can be found on her Flickr site.

Perhaps in attempt to temper this sourness, someone or other at some point in the past thought it might be a good idea to add some fruit to the mix. This addition can be handled a number of ways, from adding fresh fruit during fermentation, to cutting the pure lambic with fruit juice before packaging, to adding a flavoured syrup at the time of serving. Whichever method is chosen, there is an obvious effect on the flavour and sweetness of the brew, and those who find unflavoured lambics to be too sour and acidic will generally find the fruit versions more palatable.

It must be said, though, that the relative sweetness of fruit lambics can vary greatly between brands and producers, with the method used to infuse the fruit being the main reason for the variation. More traditional lambic brewers tend to use the method of adding fresh fruit during fermentation, and they generally stick with the classically used fruits such as sour cherry (Kriek), raspberry (Framboise), peach (Pêche) and blackcurrant (Cassis), resulting in a beverage that is still quite tart and complex. Brewers looking to appeal to a larger number of drinkers, meanwhile, tend to use the easier method of adding fruit extracts and other sweeteners later in the brewing process, and often use less traditional fruits like apple, banana, plum and pineapple, creating beers that can be as sweet as soda-pop.

Sitting somewhere in the middle of that sweet-sour flavour spectrum are the Mort Subite line of both flavoured and unflavoured lambics from Belgium’s De Keersmaeker/Alken-Maes Brewery. The name, which is shared with an historic pub in Brussels, means “sudden death” in Latin, a moniker that is a bit more threatening than these pleasant beers deserve. Considered by many purists to be good “starter lambics”, the Mort Subite beers are brewed using traditional methods and sweetened slightly, but not enough to push them into the sugar-bomb category of some of the less traditional lambics.

Recently, the cherry flavoured Mort Subite Kriek has been added to the general list at the LCBO ( LCBO 69591 - $4.05/375 ml), making it widely available at many retail outlets along with the previously available Framboise. It has a clear ruby-red appearance with a large pink head, and an inviting aroma of tart cherries with a slight woody character and a floral hint. Medium bodied with a nice crispness, it has a flavour that is very fruit forward - cherry, obviously, but also a bit of currant and cranberry - with a nice sweet-tart balance. The finish is moderately dry, with notes of oak and quick hops.

I’ve had plenty of Krieks that are more complex than Mort Subite, but in terms of drinkability and refreshment, it’s a decent choice. With patio season fast approaching, it’s an option for warm weather sipping that should appeal to beer drinkers and alcopop fans alike.

Throughout the month of May and into June, the various farmer’s markets throughout the city will be starting up. And while we keep a very comprehensive guide of local markets on our Markets page, I know I can’t be the only one anxious to get out there and start checking out what’s available.

Here’s a list of Toronto markets based on their start dates, so market junkies can visit each one as they open for the season.

Note that we still don’t have start dates for a few places, but will continue to update our Markets page as start dates are announced.

Also, please watch for our Market Basket column, starting next Monday, where we feature a different local farmer’s market each week.

Currently Running

Dufferin Grove Organic Farmers Market
Dufferin Grove Park, 875 Dufferin Street
Thursdays, 3pm - 7pm

Farmers Organic Market
St. George the Martyr Church, 197 John Street
Saturdays, 9am – 3pm

St. Lawrence Farmers Market
St. Lawrence Market (North Building), 92 Front Street East
Saturdays, 5am – 5pm

The Village Market
Toronto Waldorf School, 9100 Bathurst Street, Thornhill
Saturdays, 8:30am – 1:30pm

Sherway Gardens Farmers Market
Sherway Gardens, 25 The West Mall, Etobicoke
Fridays, 8am – 2pm

Starting the week of May 12th

Riverdale Farmers Market
Riverdale Park West, 201 Winchester Street
Tuesdays, 3pm – 7pm

Trinity Bellwoods Farmers Market
Trinity Bellwoods Park (North West end), Dundas Avenue between Shaw and Crawford
Tuesdays, 3pm – 7pm

Starting the week of May 19th

East York Farmers Market
East York Civic Centre, 850 Coxwell Avenue
Tuesdays, 9am – 2pm

Brick Works Farmers Market
Don Valley Brick Works, 550 Bayview Avenue
Saturdays, 8am – 1pm (Shuttle bus runs from Broadview Station every half hour)

Withrow Park Farmers Market
Withrow Park, south of Danforth Avenue between Logan & Carlaw
Saturdays, 9am – 1pm

Green Barn Farmers Market
Anglican Church of St. Michael and All Angels, 611 St. Clair Avenue West
Saturdays, 2pm – 5pm

Starting the week of May 26

Sorauren Park Farmers Market
Sorauren Park, Sorauren Avenue south of Dundas
Mondays, 3pm – 7pm

Starting the week of June 1st

Liberty Village Farmers Market
“Green P” Parking Lot #224, corner of Liberty Street and Atlantic Avenue
Sundays, 9am – 2pm

SickKids Hospital Farmers Market
SickKids Hospital, 555 University Avenue
Tuesdays, 9am – 2pm

Annex Farmers Market
“Green P” Parking Lot #51, Lippincott Street south of Bloor Street
Wednesdays, 3pm – 7pm

City Hall Farmers Market
Nathan Phillips Square, 100 Queen Street West
Wednesdays, 8:30am – 2pm

East Lynn Park Farmers Market
East Lynn Park, Danforth Avenue near Woodbine
Thursdays, 3pm – 7pm

Square One Farmers Market
Square One Shopping Centre, 100 City Centre Drive, Mississauga
8:00 AM to 4:00 PM
June 6 to October 3, 2008

Etobicoke Farmers Market
Etobicoke Civic Centre, 399 The West Mall
Saturdays, 8am – 2pm

Starting the week of June 8th

North York Farmers Market
Mel Lastman Square, 5100 Yonge Street
Thursdays, 8am – 2pm

Birchcliff Village Farmers Market
St. Nicholas Church, 1512 Kingston Road
Fridays, 2pm – 7pm

Starting the week of July 7th

Sunshine Garden Market
CAMH, 1001 Queen Street West
Mondays and Thursdays, 10am to 11:30am (when Monday is a holiday, the market will be held on Tuesday)

Eric Vellend of Menumental offers suggestions on where to get good vegetarian food for meat-free day, part of David Suzuki’s Nature Challenge.

At Torontoist, David reports on how the Queen West Ben & Jerry’s was the only location to not take part in free ice cream day, with the shop closed tight and bailiff notices posted in the window. Wasn’t this also the location that closed down one day last summer because it was “too hot” to open? Seeking chilly solace elsewhere, Julie compares slushies. Earning her, yet again, the award for most devoted (brave/foolish) food writer in Toronto.

Tim at BlogTO has news of the closing of the Queen West Butler’s Pantry, likely due to increasing rents along a strip that looks more like a suburban mall every day. Tim also compares the rotis at Island Foods with their competition and finds them lacking based solely on their smaller size. Susan has some lovely photos of the sushi at Akane-Ya.

At Gremolata, Malcolm interviews Anita Stewart on her new book Anita Stewart’s Canada, as well as Johanna Ngoh on whisky. Cheese guy Andy Shay discusses terroir, and the wine of the week is 2005 Château Pesqié Terrasses Côtes du Ventoux.

James Chatto writes of progress this week at Toronto Life, where he enjoys a progressive dinner and also talks about Anita Stewart’s book.

As for both chefs’ previous stomping grounds, Perigee has been getting renewed attention and positive reviews under former sous chef and now head chef Chris Brown. And over where Xacutti used to be, owner Leslie Gibson has returned from LA to relaunch the space this Tuesday, May 6th as Grace (503 College Street). To oversee a menu focused on “traditional flavours inspired by family gatherings and Sunday dinners”, she’s plucked 26 year-old chef Dustin Gallagher from Susur, where he’s been sous chef for 6 years.

Down in the neighbourhood that Susur is soon to vacate, Crush Wine Bar (455 King Street West) has just reopened after a month of renovations with a new look and a new menu. Formerly specialising in nouveau bistro fare, the card now features upscale pub grub such as Ploughman’s lunch, steak & chips, and London Particular. What hasn’t changed, however, is Crush’s extensive and eclectic wine list.

A block or so west, the long-planned restaurant-lounge Spice Route (499 King Street West) finally opened its doors this past week. The second project to come from the partnership of Nick Di Donato’s Liberty Group and Charles Khabouth’s Ink (the first being Tattoo Rock Parlour), the large space will undoubtedly attract the nightclub set out to see and be soon, so unless you have an early reservation, plan to eat the Asian fusion creations of chef Winlai Wong (ex-Monsoon) quickly before electro-house DJ Julien Nolan takes the decks and the place starts pumping.

Those looking for a more serene Asian experience may want to wait until the summer, when the former bar area of Rain is set to re-open in a renovated form as a sushi restaurant named Ushi Oni (19 Mercer Street). While Rain chef Guy Rubino will be overseeing the new place as well, it will feature a separate entrance and kitchen, and brother Michael Rubino promises it will have a very Japanese look and atmosphere, not to mention an extensive drinks list - beer, wine and sake - to pair with Guy’s seafood delights.

The summer will also see the opening of the latest outpost in the rapidly expanding Magic Oven empire at 360 Queen Street East, formerly the location of Only In Paradise Cafe. This full-service location will feature the usual line-up of pizzas, pastas and sandwiches and a well-selected beer and wine list, all with a strong local and organic theme.

Finally, a couple of closures to report: Chocolatier Jenn Stone has closed her chocolate shop and school js bonbons (163 Dupont Street) for family reasons; Queen West neighbours The Legend Grill & Wine Bar (815 Queen Street West) and Butler’s Pantry (813 Queen Street West) are both gone (although the Mirvish Village and Roncesvalles locations of Butler’s remain); and Yu Shan Dumpling Cuisine (771 Dundas Street West) has shut down and been replaced by Eastern Legend.

If you have a scoop to share about the local food & restaurant scene, please let us know so we can include it in a future edition of T.O. Tidbits.

“California Style” features more than 140 wines, including 65 brands in the $6.90 to $19.95 price range, from a variety of producers. In addition, the Vintages release on April 26th featured premium and super-premium wines from Napa Valley and Sonoma County.

This past Friday, I attended an event at Brookfield Place where the foods and wines of California were offered in a Malibu pool-party setting, complete with celebrity look-alikes. And while the Johnny Depp look-alike proved that only the real Depp can get away with that “Snoopy’s cousin Spike” look, complete with floppy fedora, the opportunity to try some of the featured wines paired with food such as California-style sandwich wraps and sushi was worth putting up with the kitschy stunt.

Here are my thoughts on the four wines I sampled:

Little Black Dress Merlot 2004 – I’m not generally a fan of things that appear to be marketed specifically to women, and didn’t have high hopes for this based on the label, but the cherry and blackcurrant notes of this wine make it a nice, straightforward merlot that would go well paired with burgers or chocolate.

Smoking Loon Chardonnay 2005 – This didn’t move me particularly (I was crammed next to someone wearing too much perfume when I was tasting this wine), but the tasting notes provided indicate it has complex floral, herbal and spicy aromas. Tropical fruit, spice and citrus flavours.

Fetzer Valley Oaks Pinot Grigio – This is a dry medium-bodied white with a hint of ripe melon. Paired with a chicken satay, it was bright and summery.

Sterling Vintner’s Merlot 2004 – Like a basket of blackberries - to the nose and the palate. The suggested pairing is pepper steak, but it was being offered with a spicy sausage and sharp mustard which enhanced the berry tang.

And one not offered at the event, but currently one of my favourite California wines, Blackstone Syrah 2005, is fruity and spicy, with notes of plum and blueberry and a peppery finish I adore.

The California Style promotion continues at 600 LCBO stores until May 25th. With so many choices, California offers something for everyone, whether their style leans toward Malibu or San Francisco.

But in the case of an upcoming James Beard Dinner at the Drake Hotel featuring top chefs from across the country, anything we would’ve written would’ve been pretty much a full rehash of the press release. So for once, we’re breaking our unwritten rule:

Toronto, ON ­ - Hosted by Toronto’s original foodie Bonnie Stern, the food lover’s event of the season featuring renowned chefs from across Canada, takes place at the Drake Hotel on Wednesday, May 21 at 6:30 p.m. Each of the five chefs will prepare an individual course allowing diners to explore regional cuisine from across the country as well as get a taste of what makes these chefs the best in the business, all in support of the James Beard Foundation (JBF).

Drake Executive Chef Anthony Rose leads the reception with a menu that includes Niagara Prosciutto and smoked pork shoulder with small batch maple syrup and wild strawberries.

Diners will then have a rare opportunity to savour a course prepared by Vancouver celebrity chef Rob Feenie (Food Concept Architect, Cactus Restaurants), giving Torontonians a taste of the west coast with Qualicum Bay scallop tartar with Kumamoto oyster, caramelized onion foam, micro cilantro and vanilla scented trout roe. Tobey Nemeth (Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar) will prepare Lake Huron trout and Montreal’s Fred Morin (Joe Beef & Liverpool House) will dazzle with suckling pig from Quebec’s renowned St. Canut Farm in the lower Laurentians, prepared in conjunction with French master chef Martin Picard (Au Pied Du Cochon).

Next, savour a selection of fine Canadian cheese, including Thunder Oak Gouda, prepared by Toronto’s Cole Snell (Provincial Fine Foods). Rounding out the meal, artisans David Castellan and Cynthia Leung (Soma Chocolate) will present their micro-batch truffles, blending cocoas from Madagascar, Ghana and Conacado, in the Dominican Republic.

These stellar chefs will be joined by some of Ontario’s finest wine makers including Martin Malivoire of The Malivoire Wine Company, The Speck Brothers from Henry of Pelham and Debbie Pratt of Inniskillin, all from the Niagara Wine Region; as well as Norman Hardie of Norman Hardie Winery & Vineyards from Prince Edward County. All will contribute rare vintages that will make this James Beard Dinner a culinary tour de force.

The James Beard Foundation is North America’s premier organization for the education and preservation of our culinary heritage. Think of it as Carnegie Hall, for chefs, winemakers and cookbook authors. They host events by culinary artists from around the world almost every night of the year. Funds raised through this event support culinary education through scholarships, nutrition programs in elementary schools and JBF’s kitchen volunteer program that gives aspiring chefs an opportunity to assist a master. The James Beard House in New York City is also a benefactor.

A limited number of seats are available for this gala event. Tickets are $295 including wine pairings, taxes and gratuity.

For reservations and ticket information, please call 416.531.5042 ext. 113. Drake Hotel ­ 1150 Queen St. West (Between Dovercourt and Dufferin).

Since it finally opened last month, however, the discussion has taken a negative turn, with complaints about the food far outnumbering the complements. And based on her particularly scathing assessment, it’s safe to say that Ms. Kates is in complete agreement with the nay-sayers:

The menu majors in salads and sandwiches. Some days the self-proclaimed fab farmhouse bread is good, some days it’s dry. The sandwiches are questionable at best: Chicken curry salad sandwich would be okay if one could locate the chicken in it. Same for the so-called “grilled chicken Cobb salad” wherein the chicken is AWOL, the bacon is mostly soggy, and there is way more lettuce than anything else - not exactly the Cobb salad of my dreams

Dressings are questionable: The honey-mustard vinaigrette on berry and snap pea salad (again almost all lettuce) is too-sweet pale yellow cream, and the salsa dressing on shrimp salad is cinnamon-spiked cranberry - way too sweet to put on a salad. The shrimp taste just slightly off, and they’ve been sliced in half lengthwise - a tacky trick to save money.

Also in the Globe:

• Beppi Crosariol believes that Canadian wine is finally ready for its close-up (or rather, the rest of the wine world is finally taking notice that we can make more than just icewine here).
• Lucy Waverman cooks up a menu that features early spring treats like wild leeks and fiddleheads.
• Heidi Sopinka explains the connection between Jane Jacobs and butter tarts.
• In the Travel section, Stephen Beaumont explores a few of the more than 260 bars and restaurants in Dusseldorf’s Altstadt area.

Over in the National Post, Gina Mallet reckons that while they may be serving authentic Alsatian food at Atelier Thuet, that authenticity doesn’t automatically mean that she has to like it. Although she makes it clear that it’s not the peasant food pedigree of the dishes that turns her off - on the contrary, she gets a poke in at those who look down their noses at simpler fare in favour of haute cuisine:

I’ve often wondered why Alsace food gets a free ride from foodie [sic] who are quick to sneer at other peasant foods, such as poutine or England’s toad in the hole, shepherd’s pie and steak, kidney, oyste pudding [sic]. The answer is obvious. Alsace food is branded “French” — still the glamour food.

But remember, French cuisine only achieved stardom with Escoffier, who created a system, classic cuisine, that absorbed regional/ peasant food and took it into the international mainstream. In other words, fusion.

Also in the Post:

• Margaret Swaine reviews six wines from the LCBO’s current California Style promotion.
• Sean D. Fitzgerald checks out the unveiling of a mobile community kitchen designed by a group of U of T architecture students.
• Tammy Thorne profiles Jolanta Sobolak and her Good Catch General Store, a true gem in the heart of Parkdale.
• Jason Chow gets ready for Cinco de Mayo with some chicken mole poblano.
• A. Brouwer & A. Wilson convene a Shelf Life panel to put several store-bought cupcake mixes to the taste test.
• Bonnie Stern instructs us on how to make the perfect hard boiled egg.

In the Toronto Star, Amy Pataki enjoys Alice’s Restaurant, a simple neighbourhood spot just west of the busy part of the College Street strip. She finds a couple of minor duds on the menu, but the good stuff more than makes up for it:

There will be fans of the crab cakes ($12), fresh Dungeness meat bound with mashed potato, and [owner/chef John Pekka] Woods certainly has a way with fish. His house-cured salmon ($12) is coral silk, while seared trout ($19) is a lovely bit of pink balanced atop warm potato salad and tangy greens.

For my money, the winning dish is shrimp risotto ($22), a creamy tumble of starch that would be anathema in Italy. For one, the carnaroli rice is cooked past al dente; for another, an Italian chef would never add parmesan to seafood risotto. Still, it works. The shrimp is perfectly timed; spinach, chives and tomato add spring-like colour and flavour; and lemon juice balances the richness.

Also in the Star:

• Gord Stimmell gives a few food pairing tips along with his five wine picks for the week.
• Mark Bittman makes us crave a trip to the Yucatán (or at the very least, El Jacal) with a trio of taco recipes.
• Jerry Langton visits Four Seasons executive chef Robert Bartley in his home kitchen, where he has a nicer stove than many restaurants.
• Lynda Hurst interviews Taras Grescoe, author of Bottomfeeders, a new book that is a sort of Omnivore’s Dilemma for the seafood set.
• In the Travel section, Richard Ouzounian suggest six places to eat in LA.

Starting us off, Elizabeth at Blog From Our Kitchen makes some granola, using groats, not oats! Then Ferdzy at Seasonal Ontario Food makes a croissant pudding (like bread pudding) with streusel.

Tara at Seven Spoons reviews Martha Stewart’s Cookies, and makes the peanut butter and jelly bars, while Eric at Do You Know the Muffin Man? whips up a flourless chocolate orange almond cake, and at Closet Cooking, Kevin tries his hand at maple creme brulee.

At Porkosity, Corey sings the praises of mangoes and demonstrates how to cut one. (Pssst! Corey - the Alphansos have arrived in Little India!!) And Candice of Mmm, Tasty! reviews Dolce Gelato.

Also, Dean reviews 101 Foods That Could Save Your Life at Gothic Epicures VinCuisine, and Michael recaps the Somewhereness wine event at On the Road with the Grape Guy.

It’s an ordinary night out with the girls and we decide to try a restaurant getting plenty of mixed reviews of late; Eleven. When we arrive, the sign out front reads ‘Eleven’ so we know we’re at the right place. It’s not until we sit and read the first line of the menu that we realize we’re in a completely different restaurant. With a new chef, a new menu and a new name, owner Steve Lee has once again reinvented 11 Jarvis Street and called it The Garden @ eleven.

The room remains unchanged. White chairs, white table tops and hanging silver orb lights give the room a cool, contemporary feel. However, dark hardwood floors and thoughtful service warm things up. Once settled, Lee, who has been loitering behind the bar introduces himself and elucidates the recent change. Turns out Lee and ex-chef Brad Moore had a difference of opinion. No time was wasted though. Within only days, Chef Pat Riley, formerly of Perigee, has taken over the helm and created a new menu. “An Asian spin on Canadian food” is what Lee is calling it. Lee further explains that Chef Riley has created a menu where vegetables and starches are primary and proteins come secondary.

Before the girls even touch on the latest gossip, a well-put-together dish of mixed breads including ciabatta, papadums and mini cornbread muffins is served aside a smooth and perfectly nutty cashew pesto. I ask for the recipe.

Just as we begin to nosh, our appetizers arrive. Asparagus two ways ($9.50) comes poached and grilled and is served with truffle aioli and a soft boiled egg. Albeit tasty, it seems more European than Asian or Canadian. The seared sea scallop ($13.50) is cooked perfectly and served with apple celery root slaw and prosciutto.

The inside out chicken pot pie ($16.50) is comfort food at its best. Creamy chicken and spring veggies served atop golden phyllo pastry promote conversation of Mom’s chicken pot pie. Spring vegetable gnocchi with smoked chicken ($14.50) is served in a very fresh, almost too-tomatoy sauce, but having a taste of both boiled and deep fried gnocchi is a treat. The asparagus mushrooms and pulled pork ($17.50) is puzzling. The pulled pork is actually carvings of a ham hock accompanied by slices of deep fried bacon. Not exactly what one might expect, but hey, we weren’t even at the restaurant we thought we were going to, so it was fitting.

All desserts are made on-site with the exception of ice cream. The strawberry rhubarb shortcake parfait calls, but because summer diets are here, the girls decide to share a dessert. The deep dish butter tart pie ($7) is served with a red grape sauce and is topped with a dollop of whipped cream and is rich enough to satisfy our collective sweet tooth.

The wine list is limited but it has every option a diner would ask for ($35 to $70) with many options by the glass ($7 to $12).

Although its identity may still be unclear (the bill read ‘Eleven’); things will come clear for The Garden. With service this hospitable and summer approaching, who wouldn’t want to try this not-quite-so-vegetable-first-menu on a gorgeous garden patio this summer?