One fine summer’s afternoon, several hours before an impending dinner party, I found myself looking for a spot of green to fill an unusually bare corner of my otherwise cluttered apartment. As it happened, a rather large and fragrant rosemary shrub caught my eye. Firmly affixed in its new corner home, my attention reverted back from my gardening duties to the task of hastily throwing together a four course menu for 10. All was going well; in as much as whipping up 40 plates in a little over an hour can go (think Iron Chef with a much smaller kitchen!) Until, that is, it came time to prepare my dessert. These days, in the flurry of all things fusion, a raspberry poached pear with vanilla bean ice cream just seemed to lack that je ne sais quoi. Fortunately, serendipity and I have a healthy and ongoing relationship. Often in these last minute frantic cook-a-thons I find needed inspiration in my immediate surroundings. Thus was born, my now well loved standby, rosemary infused raspberry poached pears.
Like many pastry chefs, I take pride in coming up with new and often odd flavour combinations in my desserts. They are, as are their savoury counterparts, wholly dependant on what is ready available and market fresh. That said, herbs are a very effective means of spicing up most desserts all year round (and yes, pun fully intended).
Using herbs in desserts does require some thought. Rosemary, for example, has a pungent flavour that, understandably, doesn’t always lend itself well to sweet treats. To begin with, you must decide whether your herbs will compliment or contrast the central flavours of the dish. That done, you must then decide if are to play a major role, or simply add a subtle layer of flavour.
Ultimately, there is no all encompassing guide to follow. Like many fusion foods, herb infused desserts are often as much about trial and error as they are about thought out combinations. Some matches just work, and others, well, I think we’ve all tasted something at sometime that have sent us running to find our “happy place.”
Trying out new dishes should have a little uncertainly to it. After all, that’s what really makes cooking fun. Throw some of those leftover herbs into your next dessert. You might just find that your own new classic is closer than you think.