Beer of the Week - Mort Subite Kriek

Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages on May 6, 2008 at 5:35 pm

In their pure and unadulterated form, Belgian lambics are not beers to be trifled with. Brewed in open air vats where they are inoculated with wild yeasts and other wee beasties, and aged for years in wooden casks, these mutant brews develop flavours that are aggressively sour and funky, making them an acquired taste amongst even the geekiest of beer geeks.

Perhaps in attempt to temper this sourness, someone or other at some point in the past thought it might be a good idea to add some fruit to the mix. This addition can be handled a number of ways, from adding fresh fruit during fermentation, to cutting the pure lambic with fruit juice before packaging, to adding a flavoured syrup at the time of serving. Whichever method is chosen, there is an obvious effect on the flavour and sweetness of the brew, and those who find unflavoured lambics to be too sour and acidic will generally find the fruit versions more palatable.

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Sunday Sips - California Style

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in beverages, events, wine on May 4, 2008 at 5:32 pm

It’s easy to see why people refer to California as “Wine Country”; with nearly 2300 wineries California commands 90 percent of US wine production. A new promotion at LCBO stores called California Style coincides with the Santé Wine Festival, and includes a variety of special events and in-store tastings.

“California Style” features more than 140 wines, including 65 brands in the $6.90 to $19.95 price range, from a variety of producers. In addition, the Vintages release on April 26th featured premium and super-premium wines from Napa Valley and Sonoma County.

This past Friday, I attended an event at Brookfield Place where the foods and wines of California were offered in a Malibu pool-party setting, complete with celebrity look-alikes. And while the Johnny Depp look-alike proved that only the real Depp can get away with that “Snoopy’s cousin Spike” look, complete with floppy fedora, the opportunity to try some of the featured wines paired with food such as California-style sandwich wraps and sushi was worth putting up with the kitschy stunt.

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Beer of the Week - Trafalgar Oak-Aged Rye

Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages on April 29, 2008 at 8:02 pm

As with wine, its sibling in fermentation, there was a time when beer was commonly made, transported, stored and served in wooden casks and barrels. These containers were generally sealed with pitch or resin, making them impervious to leakage, and also preventing the beer from picking up any flavours from the wood.

Or that was the intention, at least. Well-sealed or not, it’s quite likely that beers stored for longer periods of time and/or in volatile conditions, such as the India Pale Ales that spent months travelling the rough seas from Britain to India, probably obtained flavours and other characteristics from the wooden container, even if the brewer didn’t intend it.

In more modern times, these wooden containers have been replaced with metal, making it easier for beer to be produced in large batches that are consistent, with no chance of the wood (or the bacteria that can live in it) imparting any flavours - good, bad, or otherwise - into the beer. This is great for mass producers like Molson and Labatt, and any other brewer big or small that wants consistency in their beer, which is generally most of them.

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Viva Volo!

Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages, italian, restaurant profile on April 29, 2008 at 7:48 am

Volo
587 Yonge Street
416-928-0008

The restaurant business, as we all know, isn’t easy. Statistics tell us that a large percentage of new restaurants fail within the first year (the exact percentage depending on which stats you choose to believe. Making it to five years is impressive. Ten years, really impressive. Twenty years? To many, that’s a minor miracle.

If so, then some higher power or other must be smiling onto the corner of Yonge and Dundonald, where Ralph Morana has just passed his twentieth anniversary as owner of Volo, an unexpected success story if ever there was one. And to be clear: The “unexpected” descriptor is not meant as a criticism of Morana or his restaurant, but rather commentary on how someone with absolutely no restaurant experience can take a struggling Italian restaurant, keep it going through times thick and thin, and eventually turn it into an indispensable destination for lovers of local beer, wine and cheese.

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A Tradesman Who Enjoys a Beer

Posted by Aaron Okada in beer, beverages, chef profile on April 28, 2008 at 7:57 am

Over the past couple years, there has been a sort of culinary renaissance taking place that is reaching it’s prime in today’s food scene. Beer is now being seen as equally complex and diverse as wine and is now standing in the spotlight with one Toronto restaurant leading the way. My embarrassment for being a non-drinker sitting inside a restaurant designed to share the joys of beer quickly diminished as Chef Brian Morin, owner and executive chef of beerbistro was graciously candid with me about his career, his experiences, his opinions and his passion for food.

The 67 seat restaurant in the heart of Toronto’s business district is a veritable shrine to beer. The wood accents and tables are reminiscent of a traditional pub, yet a modern feel is brought in with the floor to (very high) ceiling windows, still in place from the building’s old days as a Bank of Montreal. The bar is nothing less than a beer-lover’s heaven with taps lined-up, leading down to the kegs kept in a custom-built underground storage cooler which is kept at an ideal temperature for serving a wide variety of beers from around the world. There are even gorgeous murals of beer glasses over the windows painted by a local distillery district artist, and I’m sitting and talking with one of North America’s top leaders in beer cuisine… drinking a Coke.

Currently viewed by many as a pioneer in the modern culinary scene in Toronto for setting a trend with his unique approach to using beer as the vehicle for an entire menu, Morin conveys to me that this is, without a doubt, what he was always meant to do. As other kids were playing hockey in the streets, 10-year-old Morin was wondering what he could cook next. Cooking was a calling for him at an early age, and he worked his way through the ranks of the culinary world to get to finally become owner and executive chef of his own restaurant.

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A Toast to Ten Years of Santé

Posted by Greg Clow in beverages, events, events upcoming, wine on April 27, 2008 at 8:35 pm

When it was launched in 1999, the Santé wine festival was a relatively small affair, with a handful of dinners and tasting events in the Yorkville area, and a subtitle (The Bloor-Yorkville Wine Festival) that reflected its localised nature. In subsequent years, the festival has grown by leaps and bounds, expanding to encompass events throughout the downtown core. And now, as this celebration of the greatness of the grape marks its tenth year, it does so with a new name - Santé: Toronto International Wine Festival - and a line-up of events extending well beyond the official festival dates.

The previews started earlier in April with the Deconstructing Dinner Series, unique events at restaurants including The Fifth Grill, Pangaea, Truffles, Holt’s Cafe and Sopra that featured pre-meal seminars with the chef, sommelier, and hosting wine expert. The festivities continue this coming week through to May 10th with Santé In The City: A Decade of Decadence, a second series of dinners at venues such as Amuse Bouche, Flow, Crush and many others, where the meal will be paired with vintages from partner wineries and import agents.

And then on May 5th through 10th, the main event hits with gala dinners, tutored tastings, seminars and much more. Highlights will include the International Wine Tasting at The Carlu featuring over 200 wines from 74 wineries; the popular Sip, Savour & Shop and Sip, Savour & Learn programs; events focussing on the wines of Australia and California; and dinners prepared by such celebrity chefs as Lynn Crawford, Mark McEwan, Anthony Sedlak, Cat Cora, Anna Olson and many more.

For a full schedule of Santé events, ticket information and more details, visit the Santé website or contact the information line at 416.928.3553 x27.

Beer of the Week - Southern Tier IPA

Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages on April 22, 2008 at 5:00 pm

southerntieripa_6pack.jpgWhen discussing my beer obsession with less beer savvy folks, one thing that always seems to confuse them (assuming I don’t bore them to death first) is my disappointment over the lack of American microbrews at the LCBO. Years of urban myths about Canadian beer being stronger than the stuff available south of the border and jokes about American suds being like making love in a canoe have brainwashed most people into believing that the USA is a complete wasteland when it comes to decent beer.

On the contrary, our American friends are on the forefront of the craft beer revolution, with over 1000 breweries making every beer style under the sun, and even creating new ones on a regular basis. No less than world renowned beer and whisky expert Michael Jackson declared on numerous occasions before his death last year that the American craft brewing scene is second to none, and microbrewers around the world - including here in Canada - are constantly looking to them for inspiration. Yet here in Ontario, we have access to a larger selection of mediocre lagers from Eastern Europe than to the innumerable fantastic beers that are being created just over the border.

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Sunday Sips - Château des Charmes 2006 Chardonnay

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in beverages, wine on April 20, 2008 at 4:36 pm

The difficult part of writing about wine for me is that my partner is a beer drinker. “Sharing a bottle of wine” generally only happens if we’re having a fancy meal, which doesn’t occur often in our house, just because we’re out for dinner so much. So I have to admit that I grabbed the bottle of Château des Charmes 2006 Chardonnay not because I knew it to be a great wine, but because it had a screw-top and came in a 375ml size, meaning I might actually finish the bottle myself over the course of a couple of days, as opposed to leaving it sitting in the fridge and forgetting about it while it slowly went off.

Doesn’t it just figure then, that I’ve discovered a wine I like enough that I could eventually get around to finishing a whole bottle while the hubby sips a pilsner.

Right out of the fridge, I got too much acidity, but as it warmed up slightly the notes of apple - both on the nose and the palate - became prominent, to the point of being almost cidery. With a colour of light straw, and end notes of pear and lemon, this is a very pretty, delicate wine that I would happily drink with little finger sandwiches and petit fours in place of afternoon tea. Noted wine critics also suggest pairing it with roast chicken or runny cheese.

At $6.95 for a 375ml bottle at the LCBO, this Chardonnay is a true delight, particularly for newbies like me who want to try different wines but can’t tackle a full-sized bottle alone.

Perks At The Perk

Posted by Amy Grigg in beverages, coffee, restaurant profile on April 18, 2008 at 4:31 pm

The Riverdale Perk Cafe
633 Logan Avenue (at Withrow)
416-462-3538

Now that the warm weather is here, I look forward to leisurely walks with my golden “mischiever”. Olsen loves his strolls, and a great place for a destination dog-walk or a short break from chasing tails is The Riverdale Perk Café. Located near two doggy-dense parks - Riverdale and Withrow - “The Perk” happily offers rest and fuel for two legs and four.

Owner Danielle Quayle is ambitious. The Perk was her local coffee shop when she first moved into the neighbourhood, but Quayle “was always disappointed with what it could have been and what it wasn’t.” Confident after being in the restaurant biz for 16 years, when The Perk went up for sale, Quayle took a chance.

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Beer of the Week - Weltenburger Kloster Asam-Bock

Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages on April 15, 2008 at 4:03 pm

I’ll be the first to admit that I’m often pretty critical of the LCBO in this column, on my blog, and pretty much anywhere else that beer is discussed. It’s certainly not without good reason, as the beer selection on their general stock list is still lacking, especially in the area of craft brews from other provinces and the US (although things are slowly improving on that front).

Still, I’m also forthcoming with praise for the ol’ Board when they do things right. Despite its faults, the general list does feature a number of truly world class beers, some of them being the benchmarks of their style, and a few more appear on a limited basis as part of promotions that run at select outlets every few months. (It’s still not enough to keep a lot of local beer drinkers from making runs across the border every couple of months to stock up on American craft brews and imports that aren’t available up here, but hey, at least it’s a start.)

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The Brewer’s Plate - Delicious Local Food - Plus Beer!

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in SOLE food, beer, beverages, event reviews, events on April 13, 2008 at 3:27 pm

What does local food look like in April? When the larders are getting bare and the first bright shoots of asparagus and lettuce are still just a twinkle in the farmer’s eye? Would it even be possible to put on an event and feed 300+ people on local food at this time of the year?

Turns out it’s not just possible, but really quite fabulous. The result was a delicious evening of not just local food but local beer, as the first annual Brewer’s Plate event paired some of Toronto’s top chefs with local craft breweries to come up with a dish that paired with and incorporated the selected beers.

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Beer: It’s What’s For Dinner

Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages, events, events upcoming on April 8, 2008 at 4:31 pm

beerfordinner.jpg

While the phrase “beer dinner” still makes many people think of pizza and a pitcher at the local sports bar, there is a healthy and growing trend in Toronto for beer and food events of a more refined variety, with multi-course beer pairing dinners happening at restaurants like beerbistro and Esplanade Bier Markt every couple of months.

For the next few weeks, though, Toronto seems to be Beer Dinner Central, with beer and food events popping up all over the damn place. So in lieu of my usual beer review this week, here’s a round-up of the various dinners that’ll be keeping the beer geeks happy and well-fed between now and the end of May.

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Sunday Sips – Archibald’s Estate Winery

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in beverages, wine on April 6, 2008 at 10:25 am

archibalds.jpgFruit wine has long been overlooked when it comes to alcoholic beverages. For most folks, wine equals grapes. The LCBO does little to rectify this situation, with only a handful of fruit wine options available on their shelves. Which is too bad, because Ontario has many great fruit wineries offering wines ranging from dry to super-sweet, made from apples, berries, currants and more.

I had the opportunity to sample a selection of products from Archibald Orchards Estate Winery a couple of nights ago at the Locavore Unconference held at Montgomery’s Inn. In addition to the dinner of baked beans, coleslaw, maple ice cream and fresh baked bread, guests could sample a number of fruit wines from Archibald’s selection.

This fourth-generation farm is now run by grower and winemaker Fred Archibald and his wife Sandy. Many of their fruit wines place regularly in the top 3 at the annual National Fruit Wineries of Canada Competition, with the Spiced Winter Apple and Canadian Maple dessert wines placing Top of Category for 2004.

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Southern Tier IPA - A Double Celebration for a Singularly Great Beer

Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages, events, events upcoming on April 3, 2008 at 11:56 pm

southerntieripa_6pack.jpgTaste T.O. is pleased to announce that we’re teaming up with fine food & drink import agency, Roland + Russell, and Ontario’s premier craft beer website, The Bar Towel, to co-present a pair of tasting events on Friday, April 25th and Saturday, April 26th marking the arrival of Southern Tier IPA at the LCBO.

Southern Tier is a relatively new brewery from Lakewood in western New York State, but in the four short years they’ve been in business, they’ve attracted a ton of acclaim from beer geeks on both sides of the border, so the addition of their IPA to the LCBO general list is quite a coup for Ontario’s craft beer lovers. To help celebrate the occasion, Southern Tier co-founder Phin DeMink as well as his brewmaster will be coming to Toronto for special events at two of the city’s best beer destinations: The Academy of Spherical Arts and Volo.

Full details on both events can be found behind the cut.

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Beer of the Week - Rogue Brutal Bitter

Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages on April 1, 2008 at 5:27 pm

roguebrutalbitter.jpgWhile they’ve never had a beer available here on a year-round basis, Oregon’s Rogue Ales have become of the most popular American craft breweries in Ontario thanks to the frequent appearances of their beers as part of the LCBO’s seasonal beer promotions.

Brews like their decadent Chocolate Stout, spicy Half-E-Weizen, and rich & roasty Wild Irish Rogue Stout have all been well-received during their short stays on the shelves, and if the rumours are true, we’ll soon be seeing their best selling Dead Guy Ale on the LCBO general list.

In the meantime, though, the Spring seasonal beer release currently available in select LCBO outlets includes the first retail appearance in Ontario of Rogue Brutal Bitter (LCBO 909770 - $5.95/650 ml).

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