A Taste for History

Posted by Lisa Paul in japanese, restaurant profile on November 28, 2007 at 7:46 am

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kaiseki-Sakura
416-923-1010
556 Church Street

Literally translated, kaiseki means “stone in the bossom,” named for the practice whereby Zen Buddhist monks placed warm stones in the folds of their obi as a way to stave off hunger. But its meaning is derived from more than that, says Yumi Izutsu, who with her husband, chef Daisuke Izutsu, opened kaiseki-Sakura last August. Around 1,000 years ago, Buddhist monks held traditional tea ceremonies, during which they offered small, light dishes of food to balance the effects of the strong green tea, she says. At one time kaiseki was also used to describe the style of food served at drinking parties held by Shoguns, or the highest-ranking Samurai. In modern North American vernacular, think of kaiseki as a tasting, or a small plates menu.

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Quality Courting

Posted by Lisa Paul in restaurant profile, sandwiches, shops on October 31, 2007 at 7:54 am

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Petit Four
187 Bay Street
Commerce Court South, Concourse Level
416-368-1221

Petit Four has the makings of an oxymoron. On one hand, it serves tiny desserts, but on the other it dishes up hefty sandwiches. Its conceptual slogan is “An artisanal approach to everyday living,” meanwhile it lives on the lower level of Bay Street’s Commerce Court, catering to cerebral people whose familiarity with artisan anything probably comes from reading the buzzword in trendy urban magazines. And the bakery is owned not by craftsmen but by a corporate entity made up of more than 40 restaurants, which pulled in $150 million last year.

Still, you have to give credit to anyone who opens an operation with the goal of changing the face of take-out by coddling customers with concierges and emphasizing quality in the Bay streeters’ food court. It’s a jungle down there. Most competitors have developed masterful computerized technology turning food prep into an uber-efficient assembly line. Order a meal for under $10 and it will be in your hands before you can say investment banker.

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