Claudio Aprile: A Chef of His Own

Posted by Aaron Okada in chef profile on May 12, 2008 at 7:35 am

Sitting in front of me, the confidence in his eyes is blinding, but without a sense of arrogance. Claudio Aprile, owner and executive chef of Colborne Lane (45 Colborne Street) is indubitably confident in himself and his food. Why shouldn’t he be? He’s been featured in countless publications such as Bon Appetite, Toronto Life, InStyle, and even GQ. The New York Times compared him to the legendary Ferran Adrià, chef of Spain’s elBulli, frequently thought of as the best restaurant in the world (and where Aprile held a stagerie). One of Toronto’s most well-known food writers, James Chatto (of Toronto Life), hails Aprile as the “maestro of molecular gastronomy”.

But don’t tell him that. Aprile isn’t fan of the title and doesn’t want to be type-cast. “I hate labels,” says Aprile, “They’re too close-minded, too limiting. They don’t leave room for creativity.” He also added, “I have a lot of respect for Ferran (Adrià), but I’m my own chef, I don’t want to be compared.”

While some cooks get into the industry lured by the romantic view we see on TV of glamour and fame, there are many more that are in the kitchen because they truly have a passion for it. Aprile is certainly an artist in this world of technicians. He’s been cooking since he was 14 and feels that he didn’t choose this profession, it chose him. In spite of all his accomplishments, it’s the ability to be creative that keeps Aprile striving for more. He’s made stops in international destinations such as Spain’s elBulli, Chicago’s Alinea and Charlie Trotter’s, as well as Toronto’s North 44, but is perhaps most well known for his 6-year stint as Executive Chef at Senses.

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A Tradesman Who Enjoys a Beer

Posted by Aaron Okada in beer, beverages, chef profile on April 28, 2008 at 7:57 am

Over the past couple years, there has been a sort of culinary renaissance taking place that is reaching it’s prime in today’s food scene. Beer is now being seen as equally complex and diverse as wine and is now standing in the spotlight with one Toronto restaurant leading the way. My embarrassment for being a non-drinker sitting inside a restaurant designed to share the joys of beer quickly diminished as Chef Brian Morin, owner and executive chef of beerbistro was graciously candid with me about his career, his experiences, his opinions and his passion for food.

The 67 seat restaurant in the heart of Toronto’s business district is a veritable shrine to beer. The wood accents and tables are reminiscent of a traditional pub, yet a modern feel is brought in with the floor to (very high) ceiling windows, still in place from the building’s old days as a Bank of Montreal. The bar is nothing less than a beer-lover’s heaven with taps lined-up, leading down to the kegs kept in a custom-built underground storage cooler which is kept at an ideal temperature for serving a wide variety of beers from around the world. There are even gorgeous murals of beer glasses over the windows painted by a local distillery district artist, and I’m sitting and talking with one of North America’s top leaders in beer cuisine… drinking a Coke.

Currently viewed by many as a pioneer in the modern culinary scene in Toronto for setting a trend with his unique approach to using beer as the vehicle for an entire menu, Morin conveys to me that this is, without a doubt, what he was always meant to do. As other kids were playing hockey in the streets, 10-year-old Morin was wondering what he could cook next. Cooking was a calling for him at an early age, and he worked his way through the ranks of the culinary world to get to finally become owner and executive chef of his own restaurant.

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