Dough Bakeshop
173 Danforth Avenue
416-465-2253
Dough Bakeshop is, at its heart, a neighbourhood business. Co-owners Benita Black and Tracy O'Hara are both long-term Danforth residents, having started off as neighbours and friends before going into business together. Most of Dough's customers also live in the immediate area, too - many of their first-time customers are lured in by the array of baked goods on display as they window-shop along this pedestrian-friendly stretch just west of the main Greektown drag.
Unlike any of the other bakeries in the neighbourhood, though, there isn’t a baklava or spanakopita in sight. Instead, Dough seeks to fill a different sort of craving with its small, but varied, selection of breads and baked goods made right on site.
When asked what prompted her to open Dough last October, Black admits it was partially a business decision - after ten years of cooking in summer camp kitchens, she felt she had a pretty good handle on what people like to eat, and as a neighbour, she also knew it had been many years since Danforth had a bakery that focused on artisan breads. Beyond that, though, she was looking for a job that she'd look forward to in the mornings, and loved the idea of being surrounded by the smell of bread. "People are romanced by the smell of fresh bread," she says "but no one makes it any more. Maybe our grandmothers made bread, but even our mothers didn't."
Speaking of bread, there's plenty of it at Dough. They bake several kinds each day. Some basics, like white sandwich bread and multigrain, are baked almost every day, while other specialties like gluten-free, traditional challah and olive-rosemary sourdough are only offered on specific days of the week (they're the daily specials for Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, respectively). Anyone trying to get their hands on some of the more popular breads like a baguette or a challah would do well to arrive early or call ahead to reserve a loaf, as Black notes that they're often gone long before closing time.
The croissants are another popular item, and it's no surprise. One of my benchmarks for a good-quality croissant is based on how much butter seeps through the paper bag on the way home, and I’m happy report that Dough’s pastry passes this test with flying colours. The texture is also bang-on, with a flaky buttery crust that encases a pillowy soft interior. It may not be on par with Paris, but it's certainly the best croissant to be found east of Yonge.
One of the few things that Dough doesn't offer is full-sized cakes, which aren't available due to the limitations of their current facility. Black usually recommends an assortment of sweets for customers who come in seeking cake, which seems like a great option given the variety of tempting pastries on display. When I visit late one Thursday afternoon, several trays of mini Bakewell tarts, gooey brownies, muffins, biscotti and sugar-crusted raisin scones are arrayed on the front counter to satisfy sweet toothed customers.
Interspersed among the sweets are a few savoury treats - a homemade veggie pizza, curried beef puffs, and the aforementioned croissants. There's also a basket of Montreal-style bagels which have the distinction of being the only item not baked on the premises (they're brought in each morning from The Bagel House, instead). Sandwiches are also available for those in the mood for heartier fare, made with Dough's own bread (naturally) and a variety of fillings that change depending on the day's inspiration – on the day I visit, the options are either chicken or egg salad.
For those who’d rather bake their own, an old-school aqua blue fridge off to the side is used to store bags of ready-to-bake dough. The fridge, as it happens, is just one of the many vintage touches scattered around the bakery. A rusted and dented tricycle is nestled up against the fridge, while an antique wood-burning stove is used to display any day-old loaves being cleared out, and repurposed drawers hung on the wall serve as display shelves. Combined with the spice brown walls, it all comes together to make a cozy and welcoming space.
My only disappointment is that Dough is strictly a to-go business at the moment. It’s a shame, since I’m sure it would be quite enjoyable to sit down with a pastry and a coffee while basking in the wonderful smells that drift in from the baking area. Perhaps summer will bring a small patio in the front, which would be perfect given the Danforth’s long-standing love affair with patios. In the meantime, though, I’ll settle for taking my goodies home to enjoy... especially if I make sure to buy a croissant or two to eat on the way.
