As today's craft brewers become more and more adventurous with their creations, creating new styles and sub-styles of beer at an alarming rate, it's inevitable that some real headscratchers are going to pop up from time to time, especially when it comes to new brews that are essentially hybrids of two (or more) previously existing and seemingly incompatible styles.
One example that has gained considerable notice amongst the beer geek brigade in the last year or two is a style that combines the dark colour and roasty flavours of a Stout or Porter with the generous hops and higher alcohol of an India Pale Ale. Different monikers have been used by different breweries to describe their take on this unique combination, but the one that seems to have caught on the most is the somewhat oxymoronic Black IPA.
Like many new developments in craft beer, the Black IPA trend appears to have started along the west coast of the US, most notably in the San Diego area, where the renowned Stone Brewery created a dark, rich and hoppy brew for their limited edition 11th Anniversary Ale in 2007, and then brought it back as a regular offering under the name Sublimely Self Righteous Ale. But those who dig deeper will find similar experiments from other breweries that were around much earlier, such as Black Toque India Dark Ale, created by Phillips Brewing in 2004. And frankly, some of the original Imperial Stouts brewed in England centuries ago probably had a high enough hop content to be considered early precursors of this supposedly new style.
Up until quite recently, Black IPAs were known in Toronto more by reputation than by actual consumption around here. Black Toque has been available occasionally via private orders, but no other examples were imported or brewed locally. That changed last year, though, when Flying Monkeys Craft Brewery in Barrie - known for their Hoptical Illusion Almost Pale Ale - released Netherworld, a beer that they described as an "India Pale Porter". After a test run at Volo's Cask Days event in the fall, it's been popping up on tap at a few places around town, and had an official launch of sorts a few weeks ago at Cowbell, where the whole Flying Monkeys line-up was paired with a series of dishes made with chef Mark Cutrara's housemade sausages.
My initial impression of Netherworld, based on a taste at Cask Days, was that it was a beer that held some promise, but it felt somewhat unfinished as well, sort of like a dish with all the right ingredients that's slightly undercooked. At the Cowbell dinner, however, I found it much improved. The "Porter" part of the name is reflected in the appearance - dark ruby-brown with a mocha-tan head - and the initial flavour of well-roasted malt with a touch of molasses and a hint of smoke. The IPA influence is obvious in the aroma and the latter part of the flavour, where the hops come through strong with lots of pine resin and a bit of citrus peel. The only let-down - and it's a small one - is the body, which could use a bit more heft to match the big flavours. Otherwise, it's a winner.
Aside from a few test runs of bottles available only at the brewery, Flying Monkeys Netherworld is currently a draught-only beer, and has been featured at a few places around town including Volo, C'est What and Hank's.
We had it on tap couple of times in Chancey Smith's in London and have another keg coming later this week. It certainly is a must. The new batch seems t o benefit greatly from more dry hopping.