Just about every wine producing region produces Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and most regions also produce Cabernet Franc. The interesting question is - why?
Is it because Cabernet Sauvignon is the best red wine grape in the world? Is it because Cabernet Sauvignon has such a distinctive flavour that it doesn’t really matter where it is produced? Or is it because Cabernet Sauvignon along with Merlot and Cabernet Franc are the grapes that are used to make red Bordeaux1 and most winemakers want to try making their own version of red Bordeaux?
I don’t really think that Cabernet Sauvignon is the best red wine grape although it is one of my top three, the others being Zinfandel and Pinot Noir. Cabernet Sauvignon is very distinctive in flavour but it really does matter where it is grown. Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia is different from the Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Bordeaux and different again from that grown in Ontario or Chile. Cabernets from Australia often have a hint of eucalyptus on the finish that other regions do not get. Eucalyptus or mint is a telltale sign that your Cabernet came from a hot country.
And what about Merlot and Cabernet Franc? Again, they both produce differently depending on where they are grown with more bright fruit flavours and more tannin from hotter areas. Even in Bordeaux where these grapes originate, more Merlot is grown mostly on the right bank of the Gironde river and more Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc is grown on the left. The right bank has clay based soils that retain more water and are cooler, while the left bank has more gravel and rocky soils that are warmer and better drained.
So, does it really come down to Bordeaux envy?
Not really. The grapes that produce red Bordeaux and specifically Cabernet Sauvignon really are among the best red wine grapes regardless of where they are produced. Despite regional differences caused by the climate, soil and growing methods or what the French call terroir, carefully made Cabernet blends can be hard to distinguish regardless of where they are from. This is why, in the movie Sideways, California Cabernets were judged to be better than high end Bordeaux by the French judges.
As the French are quite particular about who uses their terms to label their wine, red wines that are made from blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot cannot be called “Bordeaux” or “Bordeaux Style” or anything else that refers to Bordeaux. This is why we often see new world wines called Cabernet, Cabernet Merlot or Meritage. Cabernet is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc although it can be all of either one. Cabernet Merlot is a blend of either or both Cabernets and Merlot and the Cabernets make up over 50% of the blend. Meritage, rhymes with heritage, is a blend of the six grapes that are authorized for Bordeaux, the three mentioned above and Petit Verdot, Carmeniere and Malbec. You are more likely to see to Petit Verdot in blends from California where it is also bottled separately. Blends from Chile and Argentina are more likely to feature Carmeniere and Malbec as they are widely grown there.
Here are some Cabernet blends I have tasted recently.
Alvento Elige VQA 2006 – Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 33%, Cabernet Franc 2% - $23.95 from the winery
Cassis, oak and vanilla aromas are followed by black currant, cherry and plum flavours with some cloves in the background. This wine was aged in French oak. I’ve also tried the 2005 and 2004 vintages and they are aging very nicely.
Chateau Pey La Tour 2007 (LCBO # 925859 - $19.95)
Cherry, cassis and cedar dominate the nose while the palate is more black currant and black cherry. The cedar continues on through the finish. The fruit and tannins are well balancved in that neither dominates but there is a little alcoholic heat on the finish.
Stratus Red VQA 2007 $38 – available from the winery on June 1, 2010
A very forward nose of red fruit, oak, blueberry and chocolate greets you. This is a full bodied wine with flavours of dark fruit, plums and raspberries with a hint of mint on the finish. 2007 was a remarkably hot summer here in Ontario. The tannins are quite firm so this wine could age up to 10 years but, with decanting, will be quite good with beef or lamb.
Vineland Estates Cabernet-Merlot VQA 2007 – Blend: 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 46% Merlot - $15.20 from the winery
A nose of black currant, cherry and some earthy notes is followed by flavours of black currants, dark plums and some herbal notes. This well balanced wine is ready to drink as it is already three years old.
Chateau Timberlay 2006 Blend: 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc (LCBO #30072 - $ 15.95)
A blend from the right bank of the Garonne river in Bordeaux, this wine is much softer than the Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wines. The nose of red cherries and plums also has a misture of soy sauce and wood in the back ground. The flavours of red cherry and plum come from the Merlot while the tannins come from the Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now as it’s already 4 years old.
NOTE: Most of the wineries in Ontario will ship their wines. You can usually order through their websites or on the phone.
1. Yes, there is a white Bordeaux but not there aren't very many available at the LCBO and not many winemakers seem to be making their own version. One of the few white Bordeaux style wines in Ontario comes from Rosewood Estates and is labelled Semillon Sauvignon Blanc.
