Coyote’s Run Estate Winery is located at the base of St. David’s Bench, near Niagara-on-the-Lake. The winemaker there is David Sheppard, who vinifies the grapes from their Red Paw and Black Paw Vineyards in small batches. While one side of the property is covered in dark black clay similar to the majority of vineyards in the region, the other half is comprised of red clay, uncommon to the area. The two vineyards also share a heavy limestone clay base. This dense earth is generally devoid of nutrition for the vines, and so naturally encourages a lower yield. This forces the vines to store more nutrients in the grapes that are actually grown. The two different soils produce very different wines. Another special attribute of the Coyote Run properties has to do with location. The unique geography of the bench causes temperatures to remain as much as 3 degrees warmer than elsewhere in the region. This means their fruit is fully ripened ahead of other wineries.
Sheppard spent more than two decades at Inniskillin making wines before starting at Coyote’s Run. His focus is to make approachable wines with authentic varietal character, matching the complex nuances of varietals and terroir with an elegant delivery. Steve Murzda was farming the property before the winery came into being, and continues to oversee grape growing there today. Jeff Aubry is the winery’s president, and one of the original founding partners. After a storied career he followed through on a dream to open a winery, with no experience save a long history of quaffing fine wines. The vineyards are home to a long list of grape varieties including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah.
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery is one of the smallest wineries in the region, and their commitment to small lots means the wines aren’t often seen on the shelves of the LCBO or anywhere outside of the winery and select restaurants. The 2007 Coyote Run Estates Winery Red Paw Vineyard Syrah (LCBO 144774|$23.95/750mL) is an exception, and can be found on the shelves of LCBO stores while supplies last.
The wine is deep crimson, with a greater transparency than expected for the varietal. Scents of black cherry, baked raspberry, and plum lift from the glass. A wisp of violet is present, as are tickles of white pepper. There is also a whiff of barnyard, an expected indication of brettonomyces. It’s light and satiny on the tongue to start, showing deep raspberry flavours. Velvety tannins pique the palate’s interest next, ripe blackberry and red plum tastes follow. The acidity is on point, providing a juicy counterbalance to the tannins. The tannin-induced pucker intensifies a little on finish, with raspberry, plum and hints of blueberry flavours persisting. It needs a little time in the glass to aerate and show all facets; it would benefit from decanting before serving.
There are few winemakers in the region that can produce a good syrah from the Niagara climate. With this offering, Sheppard demonstrates he belongs to this exclusive club. The team at Coyote’s Run Estate Vineyard are passionate about their wines, and passionate about building a quality product for Canadian wine drinkers. They’ve succeeded in bottling some of that passion in this elegant, well crafted Syrah.
