There are several grape varietals that haven’t made it into the limelight for mainstream consumers. Gewurztraminer, barbera, mourvedre, viognier, and cabernet franc are all excellent examples of such varietals. Cabernet Franc in particular can offer a fascinating assortment of aromas and flavours to wine aficionados. It’s a French grape, thought to originate in the Bordeaux region. DNA tests in the late 90s showed that the sophisticated black grape parented Cabernet Sauvignon together with the racy and outspoken Sauvignon Blanc. Cabernet Franc is oft paired by winemakers with its later ripening offspring to build perfume and bolster fruit flavours. It is a standard component of modern Bordeaux wines (and Bordeaux style blends), and until the mid 70s was equal in plantings to Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux.
Cabernet Franc prefers cooler climates. It buds and matures early, and as such is not as susceptible to the nasty weather which can show up later in the growing season. It’s already harvested, pressed and on its way to becoming a medium bodied red wine with mouth watering acidity, raspberry flavours and an herbaceous nose. Wines made solely from Cabernet Franc are produced all over the world. Notable wines made solely from Cabernet Franc come from the Loire, Washington State, NY State and Ontario’s own Niagara region. In Niagara, Cabernet Franc is used frequently in blends as well as excellent single varietal wines.
Tawse Winery in Vineland is a winery with a reputation for Cabernet Franc. Tawse was founded by Moray Tawse, with the intent of producing outstanding wines through exceptional stewardship of the land. The combination of organic, biodynamic practices and traditional winemaking techniques enhanced by modern technology is working for the team at Tawse; their wines have been winning over wine critics and Ontario wine drinkers since their state-of-the-art winemaking facility opened in 2005. Grapes are harvested by hand and sorted in the vineyard, so that any trimmings from the bunches are returned to the land to enrich the soils. The winemaking process at Tawse is guided by Pascal Marchand, a well known figure in the international wine world. After spending more than two decades in Burgundy producing critically acclaimed wines from Pommard, he returned to Canada to oversee winemaking at Le Clos Jordanne. He is now lending his expertise to the Tawse team as lead consultant. Peter Pender is the winemaker, passionately committed to delivering on Tawse’s vision. His time at the Niagara College Winery’s Viticulture program provided him with the tools and knowledge needed to bring the promise of exceptional wine to fruition.
The Tawse 2007 Laundry Vineyard Cabarnet Franc (LCBO 130997 | $29.95/750mL) shimmers in the glass, suggesting a lively acidity awaiting. The wine is a brilliant ruby colour. The nose suggests raspberry pie, cinnamon and a hint of pepper and blackberry. A sip brings an explosion of raspberry to the palate, and a remarkably balanced structure. There is vibrant acidity, balanced by velvety tannins. The raspberry flavours show throughout, along with some strawberry and cinnamon stick. The finish is long, with ripe red berries, cinnamon and a little pepper at the end. The team at Tawse present Ontario wine drinkers with a beautiful introduction to Cabarnet Franc, and at a generous price point for an outstanding example of the varietal.
