This statement has announced the release of the first red wine of the vintage in the northern hemisphere for over 50 years and this year's vintage is now available at the LCBO. These wines are so new that the grapes use to make them were still on the vines in August. Many people turn up their noses at Beaujolais Nouveau because of this fact. I have heard it referred as “grape juice that has gone bad” and “grape freshie for adults” and in a few of the past vintages, I have agreed with this assessment. However, the 2009 vintage is quite good.
According to George Duboeuf, whose companies produce about 30 million bottles of Beaujolais of all kinds, the 2009 vintage is the best in 50 years. In his harvest report of September 16th on his website he said, “The general opinion among all winegrowers and wine professionals in Beaujolais is that have never seen such healthy grapes. August was exceptional and September rounded things off with excellent, perfect maturity of a kind that has never been equalled in Beaujolais.” He goes on to say that the 2009 will “gives all the excellence of the very best Beaujolais wines of the past 50 years.”
This year’s harvest started September 4th. As grapes in the Beaujolais region must be handpicked, it took the 50,000 grape pickers about two weeks to pick the Gamay noir à Jus Blanc grapes in the 3000 vineyards in Beaujolais. After the grapes are harvested, they go through a special processing called carbonic maceration. Basically, the grapes bunches are placed in large tanks and the lids are put in place. The grapes at the bottom are crushed by the weight of grapes on top and start to ferment. As the fermentation proceeds, heat and carbon dioxide are released so that the higher grapes are gently heated and start to ferment inside their skins. They eventually burst open releasing the fermenting juice which slowly fills the tank. After 6 to 10 days, the grapes are removed from the tank; the juice is pressed out and returned to the tanks to finish traditional fermentation.
What this process produces is a light, fruity, low tannin red wine with candy aromas that remind some people of pear drops or those soft yellow banana candies. The down side, if any, is that since the wine is low in tannins, it is not a wine that keeps well. Most years it should be consumed by the spring however, in the best years, the wines might last until the next harvest.
Once the wine is ready, it is stored until the big day. Originally, this was a local celebration when, at one minute past midnight, the Beaujolais Nouveau was released and local drivers raced to see who could deliver the wine to the cafes in Beaujolais and Lyons first. Over time, the wine made its way to Paris, then to the rest of Europe and then on to the rest of the world. The release date has changed a few times but has been the third Thursday of November since 1985. No matter where the wine is, the retailers must agree to not sell the wine until the third Thursday.
Delivery methods have also changed. The wines have been delivered by motorcycle, balloon, truck, helicopter, Concorde jet, elephant, runners and rickshaws in order to generate publicity. Last year, Duboeuf started to ship the wine to North America by boat to reduce its carbon footprint and the cost to the consumers.
Nouveau wines are also available from other areas of France and other countries. The wines that the LCBO is carrying this year are from Beaujolais, Burgundy and the Languedoc in France, and Alto Adige and Veneto in Italy where they are known as Novellos. The grapes range from the traditional Gamay Noir to Syrah to Teroldego and Lagrein to Corvina and Rondinella. For fans of Italian wines, these last two grapes are also used to make Valpolicella and Amarone.
If you are going to pick up a couple of bottles of Nouveau, remember to chill it for about 30 minutes in the fridge before serving.
Duboeuf Gamay Nouveau 2009 (LCBO 891846 - $8.95/750ml)
One of the French wines that is not technically a Beaujolais Nouveau is it is made from grapes grown outside the Beaujolais area, this wine is a bright purple red with aromas of red candy and red plums. The low tannins and moderate acidity highlight the fresh cherry flavours.
Albert Bichot Beaujolais Nouveau 2009 (LCBO 112409 - $13.45/750 ml)
Red candy aromas and cherry / blueberries flavours lead to a long cherry finish with noticeable, but not unpleasant, acidity.
Mommessin Beaujolais Nouveau 2009 (LCBO 897934 - $13.95/750 ml)
There is a hint of banana candy under the red and cherry aromas. Tart cherry flavours and bright acidity lead to a moderate length finish that has a hint of blueberries at the end.
Jeanjean Syrah Primeur 2009 (LCBO 899948 - $9.95/750 ml)
This wine is not a Beaujolais Nouveau as is evident from the name. It is made from Syrah in the south of France in the Languedoc region. Primeur refers to any wine that is sold before the next harvest. The Syrah grapes give this wine a deeper colour that the first ones. The dark red cherry candy aromas on the nose lead to dark cherry and blueberry flavours. This wine is smoother in the mouth that the first three tasted.
Mezzacorona Novio Vino Novello 2009 (LCBO 669275 - $9.95/750 ml)
An Italian entry, made from Teroldego and Lagrien, two indigenous grapes of northern Italy. This wine is quite dark, almost an opaque purple black. The nose is quite grapey but the flavours are all cherry and a hint of spice with a dark cherry and plum finish.
Negrar Novello del Veneto IGT 2009 (LCBO 899955 - $9.95/750 ml)
The nose is red fruit and a bit of earthiness while the cherry and raspberries flavours have a hint of blueberry candy at the end.
Beaujolais Villages Nouveau 2009 - Georges Duboeuf (LCBO 932780 - $14.95/750 ml)
Beaujolais Villages is one step up the quality ladder from plain Beaujolais. This wine has the expected cherry candy nose and cherry and plum flavours. It also has the brightest acidity. The black cherry and dark raspberry finish is fairly long.
Beaujolais Villages Nouveau 2009 – Joseph Drouhin (LCBO 113266 - $14.95/750 ml)
The red fruity candy nose is followed by cherry and dark plum flavours with a hint of spice on the finish.
