Wine of the Week – Norman Hardie 07 County Pinot Noir

Prince Edward County (PEC) is Ontario’s second largest winemaking region. Wine started here in 2000, with 20 acres of planted vines and one winery. Since then, the region has grown to over 600 acres of planted vines and a dozen wineries. There’s a great reason for the growth - soil and meteorological patterns of the area are quite similar to one of the world’s most famous winemaking regions: Burgundy. Although Burgundian grape vines aren’t subjected to the deep freeze that Ontario vines endure during the winter, the calcareous limestone base with clay soils they are rooted in are remarkably similar to those of Prince Edward County. PEC sits on a large limestone table that juts into Lake Ontario. Limestone retains water, and the stony clay soils atop the limestone shelf drains at an excellent pace to supply vines with enough water to grow, but stress them enough so roots delve deeper into the soil to find more water. Deeper roots mean the vines are taking nutrients from a wider range of soil, adding a wider variety of flavours into the grapes and resulting wines.

Norman Hardie spent years looking for the right soil and climate for his winery; a search that took him around the world numerous times. Although he began at the University of Western Ontario studying Economics, he moved on to spend time studying wine at University of Dijon in France. On returning to Ontario, he studied for and received accreditation as a sommelier from George Brown College. Hardie took a job at the Four Seasons, where he progressed from manager/sommelier of the Studio Cafe to the sommelier/manager of Truffles for three years, the Four Seasons’ prestigious fine dining establishment. His passion for wine deepened during this time, and he left a generous promotion to learn to make wine. Afterstudying the art and sciences of winemaking through several vintages at various wineries across the globe - Oregon, Burgundy, New Zealand, California - he settled on Prince Edward County to build his own winery and produce wines from Pinot Noir grapes. The combination of soil and microclimate there led Norman to believe it was the best place in Ontario for him to cultivate Pinot Noir. In 2003, he began planting vines with his own hands, and in 2005 the Norman Hardie Winery and Vineyard opened.

The 2007 Norman Hardie County Pinor Noir ($35 from Norman Hardie Winery and Vineyard or select LCBOs) provides proof positive of Mr. Hardie’s devotion to Pinot Noir, and why he feels Prince Edward County is the right region to produce it. It’s sparkling ruby in the glass, with a nose that could easily be mistaken for a Burgundian pinot noir. Earthy aromas of mushrooms, leather, and basil abound. Hints of cherry, raspberry and whispers of smoke and black pepper are also present in this complex layered bouquet. A sip rewards the palate with a silky, elegant feeling wine. Flavours of raspberry, red cherry and cranberry are first to arrive. There’s a marvelous mineral undertone next, and some fresh basil flavours. The wine’s acidity makes it feel juicy, and the tannins are smooth and refined. A long finish echos the initial attack, leaving the mouth with memories of raspberry and echoes of minerality and herbaceousness. This is an outstanding wine that clearly demonstrates PEC is one of Canada’s premier winemaking regions, capable of creating world class wines.