Stratus Vineyards wines generate conversation. Devoted fanatics rave about the quality of wine produced in Stratus’s LEED-certified winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, and Stratus’s carefully constructed "assemblage" wines consist of the best examples of fruit from their own vineyards for a particular growing season/vintage. Their winemaker J-L Groux, strives for a true expression of the land in the wines he creates. He typically produces only two signature wines each year – Stratus White and Stratus Red – that he believes shows off the best characteristics of the vintage.
A typical bottle of wine from Stratus will cost 30-50 dollars. Wildass Wines is Stratus’s second label, releasing wines which are more approachable to the average consumer with modest wine budgets. Wildass Wines are under 20 bucks, and are highly rated by critics and consumers alike. Most distribution is limited to local Niagara-on-the-Lake restaurants, but some are released to the LCBO and a limited number are available online.
Rosé wines deserve more respect, and the 2007 Wildass Rosé (LCBO# 71712, $19.95, or available from the winery) is out to get it. In the glass it pours a deep crimson-pink. Many pinot noir wines don’t get this dark, so it’s especially surprising to see a rosé with this depth of colour.
The nose shows some deep and powerful aromas. Summer strawberry is here, along with woody notes – old cedar, a faint whiff of pipe tobacco and even a little bit of pine needle. More red fruit aromas like cranberry and cherry are also present.
There is an impression of sweetness on the first sip. The wine feels satiny on the palate and strawberry flavours are the first to appear. Deeper raspberry flavours are next, along with a notable acidity. Sweet ripe cherry reveals itself in the middle of the show. The finish brings red currants and cranberry, then returns to the raspberry along with ripe wild blackberry and a touch of black pepper. There is a surprising amount of tannin present to complete the structure of this wine.
This is a serious rosé, and it will gain any palate’s respect. It’s another outstanding example of Niagara wine from Stratus. For the price, there is a considerable amount of complexity and sophistication going on. It will go great with anything – on its own, or with roasted chicken, steak, seafood, or even potato chips.
