Originally a brewpub on John Street in the location that now houses Jack Astor's, the Amsterdam Brewery was one of the pioneers of craft brewing in Toronto. Coupled with sibling establishment The Rotterdam, where the long bar featured over 50 taps as well as numerous rare and exclusive bottles, the influence that Amsterdam had on the city's beer scene is undeniable.
That said, many local beer nerds - including yours truly - feel that much of that influence was squandered when Amsterdam moved away from their brewpub roots and became a full-scale bottling brewery in the mid 1990s. Moving out of the John Street address, brewing operations were shifted to the Rotterdam location at King and Portland, where the bar and was shrunk and turned into an Amsterdam taproom. Emphasis was placed on the more mainstream brands like Natural Blonde and Nut Brown Ale, and while some of their seasonal and one-off brews showed a bit of a spark, most of their beers were just plain unexciting, a problem that seemed to get worse after the move to their current location at 21 Bathurst Street.
Last summer, however, things started to change. A arrival of new plant manager Andre Klinker and brewmaster Jamie Mistry, both of whom had experience at several other microbreweries, seemed to give the brewery the kick in the pants that it needed. Since he arrived, Mistry has played around with a couple of interesting one-offs, including a doppelbock based on the recipe of a local homebrewer, and even the main brands seem to have a bit more character and consistency under his watch.
His most recent addition to the Amsterdam oeuvre is a Belgian-style wheat beer that's been dubbed Oranje Wit, Dutch for Orange White. It's a clever name, as not only does it play off of Witbier (the Flemish name of the style) and the traditional inclusion of orange peel in the recipe, but it also refers to the importance of the orange in The Netherlands, where it's the official colour of the Dutch Royal Family. But clever name aside, what's really important is the quality of the beer itself, and I'm glad to report that there are no problems in that department.
Packaged unfiltered as is proper for the style, Oranje Wit is a very hazy golden-orange beer, especially when you pour about 90% and then give the bottle a good swirl to pick up the yeasty sediment before pouring the rest. The yeast comes through in the aroma, along with the expected notes of orange and coriander, and just a hint of the anise that is the one non-traditional addition to the brew. The medium body has a slight creaminess on the palate, and the flavour is a refreshing combination of citrus and light spice, with a yeasty tang and a slight tartness. Again, the anise is there only fleetingly, with a quick suggestion of licorice towards the finish.
Amsterdam Oranje Wit is now available at the brewery's retail outlet in six packs ($11.95) and on draught at a few local bars, although quantities are quite limited. The store also sells the full line-up of Amsterdam and KLB brands, including the recently launched Big Wheel Amber, and brewery tours are available with a tasting of several beers offered at the end of the tour. Call 416-504-1040 for more information.
