The Queen and Beaver Public House
35 Elm Street
647-347-2712
When we interviewed Jamieson Kerr late last summer for a profile of his King West establishment Crush Wine Bar, he mentioned that one of his future plans was to open a new place modelled after the gastropubs that have taken the dining scene of England by storm in recent years; a place that offers good food, great beer, and most importantly, a comfortable and friendly atmosphere that makes everyone feel welcome.
Given that he had just completed a renovation and relaunch at Crush, and with the economy starting to go down the toilet, this seemed like a long-term goal rather than an immediate one. So we certainly didn't expect that just 10 months later we'd be sitting down for lunch with him at his newly opened gastropub The Queen and Beaver.
And as Kerr tells it, he didn't really expect it either.
"I never thought I would do it this year because of the recession," he says. "But in the second week of January, I was chatting with Arron Barbarian (of Barbarian's Steakhouse), and I mentioned that I'd love to open a pub, and he said 'Well, you should come and look at this place on Elm Street'. So I came in here, and as soon as I walked in, I knew that I wanted to be in this space."
Several months of negotiations followed, including numerous investor meetings, much haggling to get the rent down to a reasonable level, and an especially nerve-wracking week of convincing the landlord to reject a competing offer from the Fionn MacCool's chain. But in the end, Kerr prevailed, and once the space was sorted, it came time to turn it into the pub of his dreams.
"I spent a lot of time with the designer, Elisa Sauvé, showing her photographs of pubs I'd visited in England. I told her exactly what I wanted: the mismatched furniture, the casual feel, the soul and warmth of the place. And I showed her the movie Withnail & I, and told her I wanted a place like the pubs in the film." (Sauvé enjoyed the film so much that she bought Kerr a signed photo of stars Richard E. Grant and Paul McGann on eBay as a pub opening gift.)
The result of Sauvé's design is remarkably close to Kerr's vision, especially considering that it took just two months to complete the renovations. The main floor dining area features a combination of mismatched furniture and homey décor that would have been twee or contrived under less skilled hands, but that Sauvé and her able crew have made comfortable and welcoming.
Even more impressive, however, is the sports screening room on the second floor, which is about as far away from a typical sports bar as you could imagine. A massive flat screen dominates the west wall, with leather couches and chairs serving as perfect viewing positions, and a classic Crown sound system (old school hi-fi equipment being one of Kerr's other passions) providing crystal-clear audio. A loyal Manchester United fan, Kerr has artfully hung an assortment of footy memorabilia including a jersey signed by Man U star Ryan Giggs. Once the English Premier League season starts in August, Kerr plans to open on Saturday mornings to screen the games, with a traditional full English breakfast available for the fans. In the meantime, TFC matches and other sporting events are being aired for those looking for a civilised place to catch a game and enjoy a couple of pints.
Speaking of which, imbibers of quality brews won't be disappointed by the Queen & Beaver's draught selection, which focuses on quality over quantity. The half-dozen draught taps include two solid imports (Czechvar Pilsner and Fuller's Chiswick Bitter), a pair of local craft beers (Creemore Springs and Denison's Wheat), and a duo from Montreal's McAuslan Brewery (Cream Ale and St. Ambroise Oatmeal Stout). And in true British fashion, Kerr is also offering Wellington Arkell cask ale, serving it at the proper cellar temperature thanks to the separate fridge installed at the second floor bar.
Of course, as you'd expect from the owner of one of Toronto's top wine destinations, fans of the grape are also well-served, with over 20 quality wines available by the bottle, and dozen by the glass. And those with a taste for the hard stuff can enjoy classic cocktails such as Mint Juleps, Sidecars and Moscow Mules.
Such a fine selection of beverages deserves to be accompanied by some equally fine food, and the pub makes an exceptionally strong showing in that department as well. As Kerr notes both in person and on the pub's website, the plates that come out of chef Andrew Carter's kitchen are not "posh nosh", but neither are they the platters of greasy grub found at most so-called pubs.
Like Kerr, Carter is an English ex-pat, and he therefore had no trouble coming up with a menu that leans heavily towards classic British dishes such as fish and chips, curries, steak and chips, and meat pies. But his bistro and fine dining experience at restaurants including Herbs and Le Paradis also comes through in dishes like apple cider duck leg, baked Atlantic salmon, and steamed mussels.
Standing in his kitchen, Carter is like a proud papa, showing off all of the newly installed equipment, the wood-burning oven left from the restaurant's previous life as a pizzeria and now being used for roasts and meat pies, the incredibly fresh fish and produce that he has the pleasure of working with, and the beef from Beretta Organic Farms that they dry-age in house. He uses as much seasonal produce as possible, and intends to have his menu be a constant work-in-progress based on customer feedback and what is available from his suppliers from week to week.
With higher quality food, higher prices generally follow, so those expecting the usual pre-fab pub fare may experience a bit of sticker shock when faced with a menu where most of the main courses are in the $15-$20 range. But once the plates are on the table, it should be obvious to all but the tightest of tightwads that the food being produced by Carter and his crew is more than worth the price.
The Midlands curry (lamb on our visit, but changing daily) features a generous portion of tender meat in an expertly spiced sauce that perfectly balances heat and flavour. Duck and potato pie resembles scalloped potatoes layered with juicy chunks of duck meat, all enveloped in a flaky crust. And the burger is nothing less than a revelation, with a patty constructed from beef that's been hand chopped rather than ground, and mixed with beef marrow to add an extra depth of flavour and texture. Topped with double smoked bacon and Stilton, and served with chips fried in duck fat and delicious homemade ketchup, it's easily in the running for Toronto's top burger.
Another pub tradition is upheld with the Queen and Beaver's "Snack & Supper Menu", featuring quick bites, sandwiches and pies that are available from opening until late night. Englishness is exuded in dishes like pork scratchings, scotch egg, and bacon butty, but chef Carter also gets adventurous with items such as black pudding & chorizo beignets, pickled lamb's tongue, fried cod cheeks & tongues, and tempura troutlings. The latter is not for the squeamish, as it features fresh baby trout with heads and guts still intact, dipped in a tempura batter and fried to a golden-brown. The strong and almost earthy flavour is a shock at first, but washed down with a pint of malty Arkell cask ale, it's easy to imagine them being served in a cozy country pub in the heart of England. (Although they'd probably come without a dollop of sorrel crème fraîche on the side...)
As we finish our lunches and polish off our pints, we have one final question for Kerr: After years of thinking about it and a few months of actually working on it, did the Queen and Beaver Public House turn out to be what he wanted it to be? "Yeah, it really did, and then some. I don't think I ever envisioned it being this good. It was stressful, and it wasn't the most enjoyable process at times, but I'm enjoying it now."
And with one more look around his dream pub come true, he adds: "As crazy as it was, I'd love to do another one."
