Here’s a round-up of the food & drink articles in Toronto’s papers today…
National Post:
- Gina Mallet once again displays her ignorance of the local and slow food movement that she so despises with the opening line to her review of Taste of China, where she states: "Funny how the fresh and local crowd never mention fish". Not only does her seemingly obligatory weekly jab at the "fresh and local crowd" have absolutely nothing to do with the rest of the review, but Ms. Mallet is oblivious to the fact that many locavores are big fans of fish, as evidenced by the frequent appearances of Ontario-caught pickerel, perch, whitefish, trout and more on the menu of restaurants like Cowbell, Veritas and Gilead Café. But hey, why let pesky facts get in the way of yet another tired and predictable insult?
- Margaret Swaine recommends three bold and flavourful wines from today's Vintages release.
- Alisa Smith and J. B. MacKinnon of Food TV's The 100 Mile Challenge continue their six-part series of tie-in articles with a look at the trouble caused by wheat - or rather, the lack thereof.
- Alison Broverman's "Tournament of Vegetables" series continues, with this week featuring a showdown between spinach and broccoli.
- Bonnie Stern has a few quick recipes suitable for both Easter and Passover.
Toronto Star:
- Corey Mintz hands the reviewing reins over to his 12 year old niece, Mattison, at C5.
- Gord Stimmell suggests a couple of whites made from the less popular grillo and verdejo grapes, as well as a pair of organic reds and a solid Chilean merlot.
- Paola Loriggio finds it tough to live as a locavore for a week - although when a vegetarian in Toronto tries to spend a week in February eating completely locally, aren't they're pretty much setting themselves up to fail? Even more so when, like Ms. Loriggio, they complain about having a hard time buying groceries without a car, and find it difficult to bring their lunch to work because the subway is too crowded.
- Megan Ogilvie tries out The Flat Belly Diet, and gives it a passing grade despite some questionable scientific claims.
Globe & Mail:
- Joanne Kates throws another glowing review onto the growing mountain of praise for the Black Hoof.
- Beppi Crosariol gives praise to several wines from Ontario, BC and elsewhere that should go well with Easter dinner.
- Lucy Waverman celebrates spring with some fresh and tasty Asian appetizers.
- Sasha Chapman looks at the past, present and future of Splendido, where new owners Carlo Catallo and Victor Barry plan to make some big changes this summer.
Gina Mallet's "Last Chance to Eat" was an insightful and fantastic read, and when she started her blog I eagerly bookmarked it and read it regularly. But over the last year or two she has morphed into a cantankerous anti-everything writer, dismissing the organic, local, and green movements outright at every turn. I understand that we need a healthy amount of skepticism about these movements, but to attack them all outright is as unhelpful as swallowing all their claims without question. I find her views puzzling and disappointing. How can one be a relevant and interesting food writer while avoiding everything that is exciting about food today?