Frank
Art Gallery of Ontario – 317 Dundas Street West
416-979-6688
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and wine: $160
I have many fond memories of dining at the AGO’s former restaurant, Agora. While it didn’t do dinner, it did a fine and casually fancy lunch and Sunday brunch, and I enjoyed many a fluffy omelet there in that big ol’ gallery hall, flooded with sunlight on a cold spring morning. And I’m not going to pretend that I’m not sad that it’s gone.
But there’s a new kid on the block at Dundas and McCaul. And the name is Frank. "They" say it’s named after the artist, Frank Stella (whose massive whimsical metal installation piece hangs suspended as a backdrop in the dining room), but it could just as easily be named after the restaurant's interior designer and visionary architect of the newly reborn AGO, Frank Gehry. I take comfort in the fact that Agora's Executive Chef, Anne Yarymowich, is still in the house, partnering with Chef de Cuisine, Martha Wright (formerly of Starfish).
One thing I liked about visiting Agora was that one had the opportunity to walk through the gallery to get to the restaurant. Not so with Frank. While it may be accessed through the new AGO gift shop, it also has a Dundas Street entrance. Customers don’t have to bother with the gallery at all, if they so wish. It also means that Frank is open for dinner.
Which is where I’m at. And this evening, I am joined by Sheryl Kirby and Greg Clow, the fine foodie founders of this website.
The space is sleek without being slick, cool without being clinical. There’s lots and lots of wood. Floor to ceiling front windows. A massive wine wall. And that great big hanging sculpture of Mr. Stella's adds even more dramatic impact.
The menu comprises a nice selection of contemporary takes on well-loved bistro classics including moules frites ($14), duck leg confit ($22), and coq au vin $23). And the playfully written wine list (no stodgy, snoot-stinky descriptions here) is all Ontarian.
A basket of three breads arrives along with a small dish of goat butter and Maldon salt in a sea shell (cute idea, the shell, but slightly silly in application). Of the trio, the dark bread is a winner - lovely and chewy with just a hint of chocolate, and divine with the butter and crunch of salt.
And the salt theme continues for a bit with my salt cod fritters served up with white anchovies, tee-tiny arbequina olives and tatsoi greens ($13). The fritters are a pleasantly crunchy and a satisfying starter. Greg’s squash and potato perogies with sage ($12) are somewhat homely in this setting, but they’re perogies after all, and do the job. The real star of the starters is Sheryl’s “still life” of a Riesling-poached pear, Quebec blue cheese, crispy pancetta and caramelized fig ($14) – while all of its components are yummy in their own right, this is truly an appetizer where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
We also try a side of frites just because. Accompanied by two dips, the lemony mayo is just that, but the quince ketchup is a hit.
There are no vegetarian mains, which is a bit surprising, and two white fish selections. Lake Erie pickerel with cauliflower ragout ($23) arrives with a heavenly curry-tinged sauce that pairs well with the delicate fish. We all consider Sheryl’s order of organic farmed cod ($24) a little on the bland side, and while the topping of olive salsa verde is crazy with olive flavour (which I happen to love) there might be gentler ways to try and liven up the fish. The standout of our chosen mains is Greg’s braised Thumper ($25) - perfectly seasoned and succulent (and does not taste like chicken), a creamy, crusty potato galette sharing the designer-styled plate.
And then there’s dessert. Oh, the desserts! How can we choose only three? The answer is we can’t, and we order four. The ice cream “triptych” ($9) presents three quenelle-shaped scoops of intense flavours; wildflower honey is fragrant and creamy, a bonus little nugget of honeycomb hidden underneath; the crabapple sorbet is a fresh burst of tangy fruit; and the spiced bread is rich with the warm flavours of cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and nutmeg. A big rice pudding fan, Greg proclaims his rice pudding brulée ($10) the best he’s ever eaten. It’s quite possibly the best I’ve ever eaten as well - deliciously buttery and comforting. And the accompanying shortbread tastes like my mom used to make every Christmas.
Speaking of cookies, we order the cookie plate ($8), a nice selection of baked sweets and confections including a lemony marcaron, a square of maple walnut fudge, a vanilla madeleine, hazelnut biscotti, and crispy oatmeal raisin and chocolate chip.
The warm chocolate pudding with sweet whipped cream and salted caramel sauce ($10) gets six thumbs up at our table. Some might describe this as sinfully decadent, but for my money this is a big bowl of magic and happiness.
Service is skilled, experienced and, for the most part, nicely attentive without being intrusive. Water glasses are topped up regularly, and should you leave your napkin in a heap on the table when you visit the restroom, it will be folded upon your return.
I will always miss Agora. But I think I've found a new friend in Frank.
