Posted by Sheryl Kirby in events, events upcoming, indian on November 28, 2008 at 3:08 pm

Naveen Polapady isn’t just an innovative chef, he’s making a name for himself as an innovative businessman. As the owner of Maroli, the only Malabari restaurant in Toronto, he knew he couldn’t wait for someone to throw a festival featuring the cuisine of his home region in India – so he decided to create one himself.

Malabar is in the northern part of the south-west Indian state of Kerala. South of the more well-known Goan region that attracts ravers and seashore vacationers, Malabar has many of the same cultural influences as its west coast neighbours, having been visited by Dutch, British, French, Portuguese, Italian and Arab regimes throughout the centuries, all of whom have left their mark on the local culture and cuisine. Home to Hindu, Muslim and Christian communities, Malabari cuisine turns traditional Indian food ever so slightly on its head with a focus on fish, mutton and yes, even beef.

Appam are a Kerala delicacy, a small pancake made from fermented rice flour. Also known as hoppers, they are fried in an bowl-shaped pan called an appachatti, and are usually topped with a spicy stew. If that happens to be one of Chef Polapady’s seafood stews, all the better. Fish moilee (seared king fish poached in turmeric and black pepper flavoured coconut sauce) is gently spicy, while oyster stew with coconut milk and curry leaves is a personal favourite. A Maroli specialty is Polapady’s Malabari chicken; battered with chick pea flour and a variety of herbs and spices, this dish puts neighbouring KFC to shame.

Most stews begin with a base of either light coconut milk or roasted coconut, and items are braised and then left to cook slowly to incorporate the flavours of the coconut to the fish or meat. Light or white sauces are used for fish dishes while sauces based on the roasted coconut are used for red meats, with the addition of coconut oil, mustard seeds, curry leaves, clove, ginger and turmeric.

And because Malabar is also home to numerous Muslims and Christians, dishes like mutton stew or beef olatiyathu (pot roasted beef with coconut tidbits) are also authentic to the region. Polapady even served up pepper fried bulls testicles recently, and it’s not uncommon to find dishes including buffalo or moose in Malabar, something definitely not found in other parts of India.

Maroli’s regular menu offers “Indian and Malabari Cuisine” and while standard Indian dishes such as butter chicken or channa masala are normally offered, the restaurant will be serving only Malabari cuisine tomorrow and Sunday at the Inaugural Malabari Food Festival. In order to allow customers to taste dishes indigenous to the Malabari region, Maroli will be showcasing a variety of items including stews, curries, breads and desserts.

Dishes will be set up buffet-style and curious foodies are welcome to drop by for a unique culinary experience. Polapady will also be offering live cooking demonstrations and staff will be on hand to explain the history of the region and the cuisine.

The Inaugural Malabari Food Festival takes place Saturday November 29th and Sunday November 30th from noon until 10pm at Maroli Restaurant, 630 Bloor Street West. Admission including buffet is $20 per person.