Posted by Greg Clow in pub crawl, pubs and bars on November 18, 2008 at 7:28 am

The Cock & Tail
1168 Queen Street West
647-341-8245

In the first instalment of our Pub Crawl column, we profiled The Football Factory, one of a number of places that have opened in Toronto in the last couple of years where good food and good beer & spirits are given equal importance. As folks who appreciate both, we're obviously happy to see such spots opening, and we'll be featuring many of them in this series.

However, there's another kind of place that we also love. Places where they don't bother with food, and just concentrate on serving a selection of great beer and booze. Where a person can go in the early evening for a solitary pint or two at the bar, or later at night for rowdy piss-up with friends. Where there's no "Martini Menu", or cutesy cocktails, or liquids that are neon blue or shocking pink or any other colours that alcohol shouldn't be.

Places like The Cock & Tail.

Opened this past May by partners and girlfriends Helen Tweddle and Trish Mutch, it's easy to miss The Cock & Tail's unassuming storefront as it blends in with the numerous bars, cafés and galleries that are rapidly filling the stretch of West Queen West between Dovercourt and Gladstone. But according to manager and bartender Renee K. North, that relative anonymity hasn't stopped it from becoming a popular spot for those looking to avoid the resto-lounges and overpriced bottle service bars that have taken over much of the city's nightlife.

"Personally, I don't think trendy lounges and cocktail bars have any longevity," North says. "They're cool for a period of time, but once the trend is over, nobody goes there anymore. We really wanted to create a classic pub with a friendly, warm atmosphere where people can come, feel comfortable and have a good time, and not have to worry about fitting in to any kind of crowd."

This goal was inspired by two other places where Tweddle previously worked, and which North refers to as the C & T's "kind-of sister pubs": The Cloak & Dagger on College and The Magpie on Dundas. As North explains, "Helen & Trish had a set idea as to what they wanted from the place. They wanted a neighbourhood pub, which the neighbourhood really needed. And they wanted to serve quality beers and liquor."

On the latter point, they've definitely succeeded. The beer taps are dedicated exclusively to craft beers, mostly locals such as Great Lakes, Black Oak, Cameron's, Saint Andre and Amsterdam, plus the always welcome St. Ambroise Oatmeal Stout from Montreal's McAuslan Brewery. The bottled beer has a few concessions to less adventurous drinkers, such as Grolsch, Corona, and hipster-approved Labatt 50, but it also offers a nice variety of high-quality imports including Young's Double Chocolate Stout, Anchor Steam, Hacker-Pschorr Hefe Weisse, and Belgian beauties Chimay and Duvel.

The selection of the hard stuff is also impressive, with a good representation of the best bourbons, whiskies and tequilas available at the LCBO. "We want to give people quality products," stresses North. "We want it to be a place for people who enjoy having a good time, but who also have a discerning palate."

While they keep those palates well served in the liquid department, food is another matter. An assortment of chips and chocolate bars behind the bar are the only obvious forms of non-alcoholic sustenance in the place, and a selection of frozen dinners are kept on hand in order to meet liquor license regulations that call for a certain amount of food to be available in-house at all times. Generally, though, those with rumbly tummies are given a take-out menu for Midpoint Bistro, a late-night eatery a few doors down that offers free delivery to patrons at the C & T.

Music is another important aspect of any decent watering hole, and the C & T solidly delivers on that count as well. While they sadly lack a jukebox, the iTunes rotation features a diverse assortment of artists - Nick Cave, David Bowie, Tom Waits, Blondie, Guns 'n' Roses and The Monks, to name just a very few - played at a level loud enough to enjoy, but not too loud to disturb conversation.

There's also a small stage by the entrance that features live musicians and DJs on many nights. North herself has a residency on the first Monday of each month, performing with her country/pop combo Renee North & the Knots, and other regulars include pop-rock artist Steve Singh, duo The Sure Things who play "country music, party style!", and DJs Madam Hair, Shit King, and Sean Beresford, the latter of which hosts a monthly "Lee Scratch Party", featuring nothing but music by reggae-dub legend Lee "Scratch" Perry all night long. (To keep on top of upcoming events, check out the bar's Facebook group.)

Last but not least, there's the matter of the cheeky moniker The Cock & Tail, which appeals to the immature 5th grader in all of us. As North explains, it has a surprisingly innocent origin: "When they came up with the name, Helen didn't even realize the double entendre. She just wanted it to have a 'The X & Y'-style pub name, and have 'cocktail' in it."

That innocence is long gone now, though, as every press mention of the place has played up the naughty nature of the name. (Even North herself is quoted in one blurb as saying "Cock and Tail, two of my favourite things!") And just to add to the fun, we couldn't help but mention how fitting it was that they'd opened up just a block away from popular bar and restaurant The Beaver.

"Oh, yeah," North laughs. "We should team up with them and do some sort of slang-name-for-genitalia themed night."

Hmmm. Not a bad idea - except that it might attract a lot of dicks.

(Ouch. Sorry!)