Posted by Greg Clow in pub crawl, pubs and bars, restaurant profile on November 4, 2008 at 7:35 am

Pub Crawl is a new TasteTO feature, set to run every second Tuesday, which will put the spotlight on some of Toronto's best and most unique bars and pubs.

The Football Factory
164 Bathurst Street
416-368-4625

When it was announced in 2005 that Toronto would be getting a Major League Soccer team, there was a fair bit of scepticism amongst local sports fans and media about the viability of the venture and their ability to attract a strong fanbase. Three years and two seasons later, the pundits have been proven wrong, as Toronto FC's fans have shown to be fiercely loyal, joyously boisterous, and huge in number right from the get go.

In retrospect, it should have been obvious that Toronto was ready for a top-tier soccer team, as the various ethnic groups celebrating international competitions like the World Cup and the Euro has become a major part of the city's multicultural mosaic, and it seems like every British-style pub in town opens early on Saturday mornings to screen matches from the UK. Still, it's rare to see a soccer match on the screen at most pubs and sports bars during prime time unless there's a TFC game or major tournament going on, leaving serious footy fans stuck with nowhere to go if they want to enjoy a pint and a meal out while watching a match. Or at least that was the case until a couple of months ago, when The Football Factory opened for business at the corner of Bathurst and Adelaide.

As it's named after a film about England's football hooligan culture that was described by one reviewer as an "obscene glamorizing of senseless violence", it might be expected that the Factory would be a dank dive filled with brawling louts who chug pints of cheap lager while eating greasy pub grub that went straight from freezer to fryer. But those expectations would be wrong, as the establishment is actually a comfortable and inviting place with a refined selection of draught taps and other libations, and a menu that takes pub food to a whole new level of diversity, quality and freshness.

The roots of the Football Factory extend back to the late 1990s, when owners Patrick Penman and Christine Whittick met while working at the Lakeview Lunch. They subsequently married and moved on to different professions, but never lost their love of the restaurant industry, so when they decided to become partners in business, a bar or restaurant was the first thing that came to mind. They initially made an offer to buy and spruce up the Lakeview, but when the owners turned them down, they started to formulate the plans that led to the Football Factory.

Penman had played soccer as a kid and followed the English Premier League and other international soccer for years before Toronto FC came to town, and both of them recognized that there was a gap in Toronto's sports bar scene that needed filling. They and many of their friends were soccer fans, but were tired of watching the matches at grotty and rowdy pubs or places that catered to supporters of specific clubs and countries. They all wanted somewhere to gather for games that had a nicer atmosphere, better food and drink, and which welcomed fans of all teams and nations.

The couple found their corner location late last year, and after months of renovations and bureaucracy, quietly opened in early September. They planned to keep things low-key for a few weeks and have an official grand opening after working out the kinks, but according to Penman, "It was hard to keep it under wraps, as everybody heard that there was a place to come and watch footy that wasn't like your normal place, and then it just sort of spread."

It only takes one visit to understand why the word-of-mouth buzz was so strong, as The Football Factory is a truly unique addition to Toronto's bar and restaurant landscape. The atmosphere is stylish and welcoming, and unlike most sports bars, there isn't a plethora of paraphernalia covering every surface. In fact, were it not for the signed Toronto FC jersey hanging in the entry way, a few framed footy pictures hanging here and there (including one of Bob Marley on the pitch - Marley and reggae being another big influence on the couple), and the high-definition TVs that are generally tuned to a match from somewhere around the world, it would be easy to imagine the place being a cozy neighbourhood bistro with no sports connection whatsoever.

Penman and Whittick are happy that they've managed to strike this balance. "We've designed a place that we would be comfortable in," says Whittick, "a place for both women and men, foodies and footy fans. We had a party for Kenny vs. Spenny, and they loved it because they could watch the premiere on all the HD TVs. Women have come here for Sex and the City parties. Having small TVs in the booths allows people to do PowerPoint presentations during business lunches. It's very adaptable."

Of course, atmosphere alone isn't enough to keep a restaurant alive, you've also got to provide some great food and drink to keep the customers in your comfortable seats, and the Factory comes through in that department as well. Chef Johnny Bones (previously of La Palette and The Rosedale Diner) and sous chef Danny Griesdorf are putting out plates that rival some of the best in the city, using locally sourced ingredients whenever possible, and making almost everything in-house, including the buns for the juicy bison burgers, the pasta for the five mushroom ravioli - hell, they even make their own ketchup! Bones is a regular visitor to farmers markets around the city, and is always on the look-out for new items and recipes for what Penman and Whittick hope will be an ever-changing menu.

In addition to being fresh and local, the other aim of the food at the Factory is to be as ethnically diverse as possible. "The idea of the Football Factory is to capture all things soccer," explains Whittick, "and we want to make sure that every country that loves soccer gets represented on the menu at some point." The initial menus have made a good start of this, with British pub favourites like fish & chips appearing alongside Spanish paella, Thai curry mussels, pan-roasted duck breast, steak frites, and a fantastic pork chop.

Starters are equally diverse in flavour, including a spicy salad a la Caribe, a beautiful venison carpaccio, tender grilled calamari, and the customer-favourite Nanny Goodo's tomato tart, made from a family recipe passed down to Whittick from her great-grandmother. And while the dessert card is short, it's also solid, with highlights being a generous cheese plate and a crème brûlée that one well-travelled customer has proclaimed to be better than the one they serve at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel.

As for the liquid side of the menu, it manages to hold its own against the food. The taps strike a balance between a few imports from the Carlsberg family of brews (a logical choice given that Carlsberg is a major sponsor of Toronto FC and many international soccer tourneys), and a good selection of Ontario and Quebec craft beers including Great Lakes, Mill Street, Steam Whistle and McAuslan. They also offer a small but well-selected wine list, with all options available by the glass or bottle, and a number of premium spirits including a rotating selection of single malts.

Most importantly, though, the Football Factory has owners and staff who are completely passionate about what they do, even despite the long hours and huge investments necessary to get a fledgling pub off the ground. As Whittick says, "Some people get involved in this industry and don't fully grasp how much time and love and energy it takes to do it. But we're happy to be devoting ourselves to it, because it seems to be doing its own thing and developing a life of its own, and it's wonderful to watch."

Cheers to that, and here's hoping that the life she speaks of is long and prosperous.