Posted by Greg Clow in beverages, spirits on October 14, 2008 at 9:08 am
"When people ask me what this place is like, I tell them it's like science class in high school. Except much cooler."
That's what Adam McDowell of the National Post said to me as the two of us and several other local drink writers were gathered in a tasting lab at LCBO headquarters last week to sip and sample a couple of dozen products from the Premium Brown Spirits promotion that kicks off today. And he has certainly has a point, as the white counters, silver sinks and numerous cabinets are quite reminiscent of Grade 12 Chemistry class. The main difference being that the bottles back then weren't filled with booze (well, not the ones that were on our lab stations, at least - I can't say for sure what our teachers might have had stashed in their desks...).
Timed to launch just as people are starting to think about their holiday shopping needs, the promotion features a wide array of whiskies, a few rums, and a solitary cognac, all of them at least a couple of steps up in quality (and in most cases, price) from your typical everyday hooch. But for those looking to splurge on a gift or two - or even just to get a nice bottle for themselves - there are a lot of fantastic spirits to choose from.
Canadian whiskies generally have the reputation of being fairly simple and unrefined, suitable for mixed drinks but not especially great on their own. While this may still hold true for many of the major brands, recent years have seen an increasing number of speciality Canadian whiskies that will hold up to some of the best single malts or bourbons out there. This release features three of them, including Forty Creek Double Barrel Reserve (LCBO 94771, $59.95/750 mL), an exclusive limited blend of rye, corn and barley whiskies aged in bourbon barrels, and a pair of premium bottlings from Canadian Club: a 20 Year Old (LCBO 602722, $54.95/750 mL) and a 30 Year Old (LCBO 95208, $179.95/750 mL), the latter being a special release to mark CC's 150th anniversary. The Forty Creek holds notes of smoke, spice, wood and vanilla, while the two Canadian Club offerings are revelations when compared to the common 6 year old version, as the 20 Year has notes of rum, raisins and spice with a creamy feel on the palate, and the 30 Year has a rich and complex character featuring oak, dark sugar, dried fruit and cloves with a long, buttery finish.
To help us best enjoy these or any other Canadian whiskies, the LCBO has commissioned Glencairn Crystal Studio to produce an exclusive Canadian Whisky Glass (LCBO 153486, $8.95 alone; LCBO 153783, $4.95 with purchase of 750 mL or larger whisky). The shape is based on classic Scotch whisky tasting glasses, with a design that concentrates the aromas and flavours of neat or on-the-rocks whiskies for maximum enjoyment, but which is also large enough for mixed drinks. And for an extra patriotic note, there's a maple leaf etched in the bottom that can be seen with every sip.
From Ireland, the land where they spell it "whiskey" rather than "whisky", there are two familiar names. The oldest licensed distillery in Ireland celebrates their 400th anniversary with Bushmills 1608 (LCBO 89797, $99.95/700 mL), a fine sipper with a robust woody aroma and a well-rounded flavour, starting with some sweetness from the sherry casks used for ageing the liquid and ending with a pleasant nut hull dryness. And for the deep-pocketed among us, the rarest and most expensive item in the promotion is Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve Irish Whiskey (LCBO 89714, $399.95/750 mL), a remarkably smooth and multi-layered beverage with notes of cocoa, vanilla, anise, cinnamon, caramel and much more. Only 12 bottles of the Jameson will be available province-wide, rationed out in 3 bottle allotments to 4 stores, including the large Summerhill, Queen's Quay and Bayview Village stores in Toronto.
As the birthplace of the world's most renowned whiskies, it's fitting that Scotland is well-represented in this release, with 19 of the 29 products coming from the land of haggis, bagpipers, and Rabbie Burns. In fact, that famous poet has a namesake whisky included in the promotion, and Robert Burns Single Malt (LCBO 89854, $48.95/750 mL) is also the most affordable of the whiskies. The lower price doesn't mean it's a poor quality tipple by any means; on the contrary, it's a very elegant whisky, with pleasant vanilla and apple notes, making it a nice choice for those who aren't fond of the smoky and briny characteristics common in many single malts.
Speaking of which, the classic Islay distillery Lagavulin, known for their powerfully peaty whiskies, has two bottlings on offer in this release. Lagavulin 12 Year Old (LCBO 602078, $105.15/700 mL) is a peat monster, with an overpowering salty and briny seaweed character that is not for the faint of heart. Equally huge, but starting a bit sweeter than the 12 Year Old, is this year's version of the Lagavulin Distillers Edition (LCBO 503060, $109.95/750 mL).
Other legendary single malts appearing in special editions include The Glenlivet Archive 21 Year Old (LCBO 12856, $153.65/750 mL), Dalwhinnie Distillers Edition (LCBO 503086, $88.15/750 mL), Glenkinchie Distillers Edition (LCBO 503375, $70.15/750 mL), Oban Distillers Edition (LCBO 503094, $101.10/750 mL), and The Balvenie 17 Year Old Rum Cask (LCBO 95091, $149.95/750 mL). The latter is especially unique, with the rum cask lending the whisky a lovely dark sugar sweetness with a hint of orange peel and cinnamon, making it an excellent dessert accompaniment.
Blended whiskies often get short shrift, but when they are made from high quality single malts by a talented blender, they can be just as complex and enjoyable as a single malt. The classic Chivas Regal is a good example of this, and the rare Chivas Regal 25 Year Old (LCBO 89730, $329.00/750 mL) will appeal to even the single malt purists with its rich aromas and smooth flavours of almond, spice, nougat, marzipan and lightly toasted wood. Less storied but still satisfying is Monkey Shoulder Blended Malt (LCBO 103374, $69.95/700 mL), a pleasantly soft and floral spirit with notes of vanilla, sweet orange and coconut.
Coconut, of course, brings to mind the tropics, which is where we went for our next tasting flight, featuring a trio of high-end rums. Appleton Estate 21 Year Old (LCBO 452938, $149.95/750 mL) is big and nutty, with strong notes of molasses and vanilla, and a backing of mellow oak. El Dorado Special Reserve 15 Year Old (LCBO 705418, $59.45/750 mL) is very woody and almost bourbon-like, although the brown sugar notes remind that this is definitely a rum. And the real bargain of the whole release might be Barcelo Ron Imperial 10 Year Old (LCBO 94227, $44.85/750 mL), a unique rum with notes of mango, orange peel, figs and molasses with a long, brandy-like finish.
Capping the release off is a top-shelf congac, Jean Doussoux XO No. 20 (LCBO 96206, $179.95/750 mL). Produced by a family-owned concern that has been in business since 1865, it is notable for its flavours of saffron and anise, which appear alongside notes of almond, dried apricot, honey and cedar.
The Premium Brown Spirits promotion runs at select LCBO outlets until April 25th, but quantities of many products are limited, so those with their eyes on a special bottle or two should act fast.
