Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages on September 9, 2008 at 9:15 am
Just as it's a Canadian tradition to start shedding clothes and sitting on patios as soon as there's even a hint of summer in the air, it's also a tradition for many of us to cling to every last vestige of the warm weather months even as the days are getting shorter and the temperatures start to drop.
So even though we're less than two weeks away from the official start of autumn, there are undoubtedly a lot of folks out there who are in denial about the changes that are happening around them. This week's beer review is for all of those poor, deluded people.
Before we get to the beer, though, it's worth talking a bit about the brewery, Barley Days, as they are likely unfamiliar to many Torontonians given their fairly low profile in the city. Based near Picton, in the heart of foodie-friendly Prince Edward County, Barley Days was originally founded by brothers John and Jim McKinney under the name Glenora Springs Brewery, but quality control issues with their brewing equipment caused them to become infamous in beer geek circles for the random and nasty infections that rendered much of their output undrinkable within weeks of being bottled.
When new owners Christopher & Norah Rogers took over in 2006, they made the smart move of bringing in expert brewer Doug Pengelly of St. André Brewing to help them sort out the infection issues, with the result being a much more consistent and improved product. Still, it was hard to shake the baggage associated with the Glenora Springs name, so they made the second smart move of changing the name of the brewery to Barley Days.
In the couple of years since, Barley Days has increased their profile in Eastern Ontario, but as with many of the small breweries that have recently popped up in the province, they haven't been making any serious moves in the Toronto market. This might seem counter-intuitive to some, but it actually makes a lot of sense from a supply and demand perspective, especially for a product that is better when it's consumed as fresh as possible. If there are enough pubs, restaurants and LCBO locations within a reasonable distance of the brewery to sell through the stock on a regular basis, then there's really no point in trucking up or down the 401 every week to try and crack the already beer-saturated GTA.
Still, they haven't been completely ignoring Hogtown. Six-packs of their Harvest Gold Pale Ale and Wind & Sail Dark Ale can be found at a couple of larger LCBOs in the city, and kegs of their seasonal releases usually make their way to a couple of Toronto's better beer bars. Which explains how I was able to enjoy a pint of their Summer Light Ale on a recent visit to Volo.
Much like the Anti-Gravity Light from Robert Simpson that I recently reviewed, Barley Days Summer Light Ale initially appears to be an ale brewed with a light lager drinker in mind. The alcohol level is a mere 3.5%, and it has a very pale golden colour. The aroma, however, is more ale-like, with a well-rounded fruitiness from the malt and a distinct and spicy hop character as evidence of the four types of hops that were reportedly used to make this brew. The body is light and crisp, very summer-friendly, and the flavour gives just what the aroma promises - fruity malt notes off the top, followed by a well-balanced hop bitterness that lingers just long enough to notice it.
Much like the last signs of summer, this beer is fleeting and not easy to find. But if you do come across it, it's worth supping a pint or two. Despite the name, it'll taste just as nice on an early autumn evening as it does on a warm summer day.
