Posted by Rebecca Zamon in comfort food, restaurant review on August 21, 2008 at 7:32 am

Delux
92 Ossington Avenue
416-537-0134
Dinner for two, with all taxes, tip and wine: $120

It's a Wednesday night, and Delux is packed. The formerly dark, spare space of the Sparrow has been transformed into a white, spare space where booth and table seating for 36 is taken over by denizens, both young and old, of the Queen and Ossington strip. My only option is a seat at the bar, and I take it gladly, as it seems reservations are de rigeur around here.

The high seats at the bar prove comfortable enough, but also allow a tiny window straight into the kitchen, a bit disconcerting in a restaurant that isn't pushing the whole "open kitchen" concept. After a bit of a wait, our bartender-cum-server explains that a few of the menu items require changes due to seasonal availability, such as the parmesan gnocchi meant to accompany the roasted chicken, that has been replaced by the southeastern French specialty socca.

The arrival of the appetizers is accompanied by thick slices of country bread and the salad ($9), made up of arugula, endives, candied walnuts and nectarine, and topped with chèvre noir, is a veritable summer medley, with the arugula's peppery zest playing beautifully against the sugary nuts. Our other choice is corn fritters ($9), fried salted cod cakes mixed with corn and topped with a dollop of homemade tartar sauce that break apart with the touch of the fork, accompanied by a Mediterranean-type salad whose overly generous use of oil is the only negative stand-out.

Known for its fusion of French and Cuban cuisine, Delux doesn't disappoint with the roasted chicken ($19) with garlic, lemon and parsley, served with ratatouille and the above-mentioned socca. The socca are simply spectacular, air-filled crepes made from chickpea flour that should be a mandatory side on the menu. The two large pieces of chicken are crisp, with the smattering of seasonings playing off the lightly charred skin only in the background, an ideal antidote for this tender poultry.

The other main, a classic of steak and frites ($23) with garlic butter and watercress, is a testament to this dish's enduring popularity. Without having been asked how we would like the meat done, it comes out pink and juicy, each slice revealing the integrity of the meat and the succulence of its flavour. The watercress on the side feels like a garnish in comparison.

Dessert, the restaurant's already famed to-order chocolate chip cookies ($7), reveals five barely baked gooey circles - in the best possible way - surrounding a wholly insufficient glass of organic milk (a request for more is met by surprise and reluctance). They taste just as warm and sugary as they appear, exactly enough chocolate and sugar that I don't feel cheated, but also delicious enough to make me want a dozen more. It's a bold move, adding this North American childhood staple to a menu praised for its international influences, but fitting for a spot that is creating its own classic cuisine on this ever-changing strip of Ossington. Merging the best of traditions with well-loved favourites is just how to find yourself a following, and Delux is already well on its way to leading the pack.