Posted by Rebecca Zamon in restaurant review, sandwiches on August 8, 2008 at 4:44 pm

Gilead Café
4 Gilead Place
647-288-0680
Lunch for two with all taxes, tip and lemonade: $40

You can scarcely throw a rock in this city anymore without running into something with which Jamie Kennedy is involved. Not that anyone's complaining. Whether it's iconic cultural destinations (the late ROM, the Gardiner), dinner hot-spots (the Wine Bar), weekend morning jaunts (the Brick Works Farmers' Market) or rumoured getaways (Prince Edward County), Kennedy creates dishes that stem from local ingredients, but are inspired by his creative take on modern dining. Patrons have always been able to look forward to a long, delightful dining event that may bring any number of surprises to the table. Until now, that is.

Because now, Jamie Kennedy has opened the Gilead Café, a low-key lunch restaurant disguised as deli counter that, in accordance with mid-day tastes, offers no option for a drawn-out meal or much room for adventure. Straightforward, fresh ingredients are the standby at this spot - a room, really - that seats a maximum of 30 hungry denizens of the King and Parliament area. Though casual, small allowances are made throughout to uphold the Jamie Kennedy brand, like beautifully designed water carafes along the side, and vintage-looking seats that turn out to be enormously comfortable. Smiling, helpful staff make knowledgeable recommendations and ensure waiting patrons are seated as soon as one of the coveted tables becomes free.

And of course, there's the food. Changing daily, according to availability, on the day of my visit the chalkboard detailed, among other soups and sandwiches, a local green salad, smoked turkey sandwich, oxtail poutine and the ubiquitous Yukon Gold fries. The salad ($8) was a healthy portion of mixed greens and speckled with walnuts, blueberries and tart cranberries, served with a sorrel vinaigrette that was slightly too generous with vinegar and sea salt flakes that were slightly too evident throughout. On the side was a crostini topped by Monforte chèvre, a creamy complement to the veggies but piled too high for its tiny surface.

I was surprised at the comparatively miniscule size of the smoked turkey sandwich ($9), but soon discovered that its compelling flavours made it more than worthy of a meal in itself. Served on a thin sourdough bread with Îles aux Grues cheddar and dressed with a zestfully spicy dijon mayo, the simple dish was the visit's highlight, thanks to its carefully selected ingredients that played off of each other by allowing their strengths to shine, be it the roll-in-your-mouth smokiness of the meat or the lingering crunch of the bread's crust. It was, as my lunch companion put it, a European sandwich.

Dessert, selected from the six or so options behind the glass counter, was a toasted marshmallow brownie and a berry tart. The tart ($4.25) was gorgeous to look at, but a disappointment in its taste, relying too heavily on a buttery crust and using raspberries and blueberries that were not sweet enough to compete. The brownie, on the other hand, was spectacular; a rich square of chocolate goodness that managed to hold a fudgey texture without getting gooey. It could have used a slight warming, but perhaps that would have pushed it too far into pudding territory.

A bonus for film crews who've had enough of the craft service table and other locals who opt for a true lunch break, Gilead Café is sure to be a welcome addition to the neighbourhood, if only for its breads and pastries sold daily. Like Terroni, there's no Coke or Pepsi on the premises, and natural drinks like lemonade are served in GreenShift cups that speak to the owner's well-known principles on sustainability. Home to Jamie Kennedy Catering as well, the space shuts down at 6pm on weekdays and 4pm on weekends, when parties can rent it out for private events, but I recommend getting there midday to truly experience the undeniable pleasure of a true lunch.