Hot Time in the City

Fire on the East Side
6 Gloucester Street
416-960-3473
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and cocktails: $115

While trying to help a friend locate a place with fabulous mojitos, Fire on the East Side turned up as a big blip up on the radar.

With a menu that is put together with a southern influence and dotted with words such as“blackened”, “Cajun”, and “Louisiana”, it may seem as if Fire on the East Side is stuck in the ‘80s. However there is nothing worn-out about the food that comes out of Chef Laura Petracca’s kitchen.

But before we get to the food, let’s talk a bit about what brought my guest and I here in the first place (and the second place): skillful mixology. There’s an array of pretty and tasty cocktails available, and my guest and I try several including the city-famous mojito and tangy-tasty caipirinhas. But our favourite turns out to be the Sex in the City “martini”. This fresh and fruity beverage is definitely my favourite patio drink of the summer so far. Think lots of sweet juicy berries, fresh-crushed and chillin' with some vodka. It's even better than that.

Cajun shrimp tacos ($11) are a nice beginning with the drinks – super-crisp-fried shrimp on large tortilla chips are accompanied by a mild green salsa with avocado and tomato. One more of these would have made it easier to share (the plate comes with three).

Louisiana crab cakes with jalapeño aioli ($12) are suitably crabby and crusty without any of the mushy middle that wrecks a lot of other versions available in the GTA.

Beef tenderloin with citrus smashed potatoes ($28) is a big fist of a steak, well-seasoned and grilled exactly as ordered. And those little potatoes are crunchy little lemony bites of spudly delight. Bonus: they’re available as a side for $4.

The spinach ricotta agnolotti ($18) is a large bowl of creamy indulgence mixing it up with “candied” tomatoes and meaty slices of porcini mushrooms. Our server warns us that it’s a large portion and he’s right. As if that’s ever stopped me.

The trout special ($20) arrives as two beautifully cooked pieces of firm pink fish piled on top of sautéed purple Swiss chard (I think Swiss chard is my new vegetable crush – nice to see it turning up more and more) and a velvety purée of sweet potato and corn ($20). It's simple and delicious - quality ingredients nicely prepared.

Word has it that Fire on the East Side’s meatloaf is some of the best in town. Or perhaps it would be if it were on the menu, which it’s not. Let’s hope this is temporary thing. In the meantime, there’s a recipe for it on their website should one want to try making it at home while waiting for its return (maybe in the winter?).

Apple crisp, chocolate caramel cheesecake, and pecan butter tart ($5 to $7) are all very good - all respectively crumbly, velvety, and gooey - and definitely worth the calories, but the accompanying ice cream with the crisp and the tart isn’t the good stuff. I don’t expect the kitchen to start churning its own, but a small scoop of vanilla Häagen-Dazs would better serve the warm offerings.

While the interior of Fire on the East Side is intimate and elegant, the shady front patio is our choice on both visits.

And a word of advice to the ladies: leave your stilettos at home when you visit – the staircase that leads to the downstairs washrooms is perforated with slits just wide enough to catch a skinny heel. Especially challenging after a few of those signature cocktails.