Via Allegro Ristorante
3-1750 Queensway West, Suite 443, Etobicoke
416-622-6677
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and wine: $250
From all the praise it has received, it may be difficult to believe that Via Allegro only celebrated its twelfth anniversary this year. Consistently lauded as one of Toronto's best restaurants, Via Allegro has amassed a jewel box worth of awards and acclamations (including "Diamonds," "Golden Spoon," and exclusive rights to serve "PlatinumTM" artisanal beef). So it's with reason that much should be expected from this Etobicoke treasure given all the press. There's also something to be said about a restaurant when many choose to pay it repeated visits despite the numerous other gastronomic opportunities available in the city.
Admittedly, my first impression of Via Allegro was questionable. Sandwiched between a UPS and a Staples in a strip mall next to Sherway Gardens, Via Allegro has a garish exterior. Despite the initial hesitation, faith in chef Lino Collevecchio's kitchen encouraged my companions and I to press on. Once inside, our uncertainties were quelled by the sight of Via Allegro's large glass-enclosed wine cellar plastered with its accolades - a harbinger for the good things that were to come. Another favourable impression was made through Via Allegro's gracious reception that accepted a late seating one evening before the open kitchen's last call.
The restaurant is spacious (huge by Toronto standards) and is filled with wood panelling, yellow ochre tones and wrought iron décor. The atmosphere is warm and relaxed, where patrons may be seated at a table or could choose to sit at the kitchen bar to watch the chefs in action. The dining room, although dim, is filled with the boisterous noise from tables of gregarious diners. Via Allegro also has a copious line up of ethanol along its walls; a quick glance through the 4-inch-thick wine list shows 750 scotch and 200 grappa selections and hundreds of bottles selling in the 4-digit range!
Either proud of their wares, or just detail orientated, Via Allegro's classic Italian menu reads like a personal ad and includes the date of conception, version number and superfluous descriptions of the ingredients used in each course. The cuisine is a mixture of Italian and continental, with great focus on Canadian harvested meats, fowl, fish and game. Boasting the exclusive rights to PlatinumTM beef (market price $46.95-29.95) - for carnivores who love their meat to be perfectly rare, juicy, tender and sweet - and a five year old parmigiano-reggiano ($18.95/person) aged by Fatos Pristine from the Cheese Boutique, Via Allegro also serves up less traditional meats like horse, rabbit and bison. In fact, the Italian stallion ($21.95) - silky sheets of pistachio dusted tenderloin - or the equally indulgent Ironpan filet of Quebec cheval ($42.95) served in a glorious shade of rare, wrapped in Prager ham and accompanied by a lip-smacking blueberry agro-dolce sauce, are both courses that I would heartily recommend to those seeking an alternative red meat. Twice I have fallen for the lamb trinity ($45.95), whose memory has me salivating like Pavlov's dog for the rack, rib and orgasmic shank and rosemary pie, balanced by a side of still-crisp blanched vegetables and nutty grains of farro. Friendlier options for the pocketbook include satisfying pastas. In fact, courses at Via Allegro are large enough to be shared.
Dishes from the seasonal thematic tasting menus may be as successful a venture as the seafood saffron risotto ($26.95). Here we found a pool of citrus-spiked, salty bacon and refreshing mango dotted al dente grains topped with a seared scallop with a crisp exterior and creamy interior, and a curl of sweet meaty lobster tail. Meanwhile, the bluefin Hohoniku ($25.95) was a hit and miss - the tower of raw tartar was lovely, but the prized cheek meats tasted like jerkied pomfret. Both the Manitoba bison tenderloin ($45.95) and I found comfort in a bacon foie gras reduction, while the delicious, albeit sickeningly rich 2004 golden spoon winning risotto al anitra con balsamico (aka. duck risotto with balsamic vinegar) with 50-year-old Silver Serve "noble artisanal Balsamic vinegar of Modena" ($69.95) may be the one extravagant dish worthy of sharing, as only a couple bites were enough to suffice (there is a pricier 100-year-old version that is said to be accompanied by the winning golden spoon). Unable to appreciate the rare balsamic (available at a 4-digit price tag at Via Allegro), we found its nuances were sadly muddled with the rich creamy, slow braised duck confit, agro dolce grape preserves, and abundant chunks of seared Quebec foie gras.
Cap the meal with one of Via Allegro's battery of sweet desserts ($11.95-12.95) including triple scoops of tiramisu, an affable coconut passionfruit cheesecake, or cheeses ($18.95), although my taste buds yearned more for the refreshing lemon-gin sorbet palate cleanser served earlier.
Toronto hosts a number of expensive finer dining spots, but Via Allegro offers one that is driven by both quality and value (think big). Unlike restaurants attempting to conquer the latest gastronomic trend, make an impact by being inspirational, thought-provoking, or revolutionary, Via Allegro serves solid, well cooked food, that is worth the expense, and leave customers satisfied and full. The reasons for the accolades are not without basis; this is an ideal place to gather with friends and family, as it caters to the masses with ample options to satisfy all palates. If only it didn't take so long to save up for the Moody Chef tasting menu ($120.00/person), whenever chef is in the mood to serve it.
Renée Suen is a graduate student at the University of Toronto, specializing in cardiovascular sciences. She has an insatiable appetite and can often be found with her camera, searching for something tasty to eat. Her visits to Via Allegro and other fine establishments in the GTA can be found on her Flickr site.
