The Drake Freshens Up For Summer

Posted by Renée Suen in SOLE food, grow your own, restaurant profile on June 18, 2008 at 8:18 am

The Drake Hotel
1150 Queen Street West
416-531-5042

Folks looking for an eclectic mix of art, culture, and a good time know that the Drake Hotel has it all. Part art gallery, part boutique hotel, this hot spot is ideal for a poetry reading that can transform into a rocking after party with a favourite DJ or band. Step to its entrance and find Drake's customers lining up to feed on food for thought; but this venue is also set up well to feed the stomach. Known or not, the Drake hosts a number of in-house restaurants - ones that cater to neighbouring locals who might be found cozying it up at the Corner Café & Bistro or munching on fresh muffins and scones in the new Provence-inspired outdoor dining patio; and ones that are a playground for the senses, including a wine bar packed with people from everywhere, a recently renovated rooftop patio or a dining room that embodies the Queen West relaxed vibe. There is even a glassed-in private dining room designed by 3rd Uncle where the yoga studio once stood, equipped with its own sound, heating and cooling system for parties up to 16.

Serving all these dining areas is an aptly equipped kitchen on Drake's main floor, headed by Chef Anthony Rose. The seasonal menu offered is described by Food & Beverage Director, Patricia Ferreira Croisetiere as being "Canadiana - the best that Canada has to offer." The menu features "[other ingredients like] naturally raised meats," but it is the chef's support of using local produce that has been the buzz. Working to sustain the environment, Rose and the Drake have taken the next steps in materializing this theory into practice. An on-premise composting program has already been put into operation, but the Drake's commitment to community beautification has been demonstrated by the recent transformation of a small area at the back of the property into an urban garden.

In our conversation, Rose shared that the organic garden was actually the brainchild of Drake's owner Jeff Stober late last year, noting that it was inspired by "one of [Stober's] favourite restaurants in Montreal [that] has a garden in the back... when he came back [and noticed that] we had the space, and so we started to put it together. This was a huge education for me and everyone here 'cuz I'd never done anything like this before."

For the new venture, Rose called on one of his favourite producers, Mark Trealout of Kawartha Ecological Growers, and Tyler Longshaw, the Facilities Manager, to help build the garden. Concentrating on vegetables that could be harvested all season, the garden hosts romaine lettuce and arugula, chilli plants including scotch bonnets and Thai dragon chillies, lavender, garlic chives, tarragon, and lemongrass. There are also sprouts of mountain mint, English and lemon thymes and oregano. However, the pride and joy is the 22 varieties of tomatoes, including 6 kinds of heirloom tomatoes that lucky diners may experience later in the season. Being close to Rose's heart, this little alcove behind the Drake is where his days start and end; Croisetiere notes that "if you can't find Chef in the kitchen, he's likely in the garden!"

Eco-friendly reinterpreted classics can be found on the changing daily menu, which is available in all of the Drake's dining areas. Just last week the season's first harvest of romaine lettuce and arugula were served. This week the blossoming lavender beacons to be made into a crème brulee, while the sprigs of arugula have already made their way into the Manhattan style calm chowder and the ricotta and market vegetable tart. Wait a little later in the harvest season to sample other treats when more produce comes to maturation.

With breakfast, brunch, lunch and an estimated 300 covers/weekend evening, Drake's 10 kitchen staff and Rose have much to keep their hands full. The pride and joy of those involved with the new project can easily be sensed with the excitement generated with each freshly plucked basket. The translation from ground to plate is a delicious reward for all, from the chefs who reap the harvest to the diners lucky enough to munch on the fresh greens. The Drake even has a blog that details the progress of the developing garden, which should be interesting to follow as the weather heats up and more produce become ready for the table.

The Drake may be a hot bed for culture, and a one stop shop to satisfy all Toronto's entertainment needs, but in a couple weeks it may also become a bourgeoning hot house for fresh home-grown food.

Renée Suen is a graduate student at the University of Toronto, specializing in cardiovascular sciences. She has an insatiable appetite and can often be found with her camera, searching for something tasty to eat. Many of these culinary discoveries can be found on her Flickr site.

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