When it was announced that Corey Mintz would be taking over from Amy Pataki as the Toronto Star's restaurant critic during her maternity leave, I must admit that I was a bit worried. Not that he would do a bad job, but that the folks at the Star might ask him to take some of the edge off the irreverent articles he turned in during his time at Eye Weekly and here at Taste TO.
Thankfully, though, his editor seems to be giving him free reign, and the results have been extremely entertaining so far. Not only does former chef Mintz know his food, but he's also funny as hell, and both skills serve him well in his review of Spice Route in today's paper. Here are several prime quotes:
For the cost of all the fake breasts at the Spice Route Asian Bistro + Bar you could buy a house. Or build one out of breasts.
[...]
Our server, as is the custom these days, explains how the menu works. We're to order a bunch of dishes and they will be brought to the table, in an order determined by the kitchen. It's a relief to have it explained because, as native Torontonians, we've never eaten in a Chinese restaurant before.
[...]
It's commendable for a kitchen aimed at a western audience to maintain such a mature spice level. But, then, maybe they're catering to a demographic in need of assistance clearing their nasal cavities.
Mintz also relates the story of a near-disaster he recently had while barbecuing cochinita (Mexican style slow-roasted pork shoulder), and shares the recipe along with a slew of tasty-looking accompaniments. And in his wine column, Gord Stimmell explains why he never writes about wines with a score of less than 87 out of 100 on the mysterious wine reviewers scale.
Over in the Globe & Mail, Joanne Kates also visits Spice Route, and is just as unimpressed as Mintz - although while he at least found the food "pleasing without ever being brilliant or daring", Kates is much less kind:
In my wasabi-crusted shrimp, the wasabi is MIA. These are deep-fried, overcooked shrimp with a hard crust and sauce that looks like and tastes like whipped mayo. Spiced chicken and Peking duck lettuce wraps are deeply mediocre.
Indian spiced roast chicken is served lukewarm but nicely spiced. Crispy duck breast with spiced long beans isn't. The duck flesh is so sinewy it can't be chewed, and the skin is not crisp but has a spongy texture. The long beans have great spicy Szechuan savour but they are overcooked. I've had much better in a Spadina dive. The seared rare yellowfin tuna is indeed rare in the centre, but the outer 10 centimetres is cooked, which is not salutary for tuna.
Also in the Globe:
- Beppi Crosariol suggests some champagnes and other bubblies as ideal gifts some summer weddings.
- Lucy Waverman cooks with one of the tastiest spring veggies, white asparagus.
- Dave McGinn checks out the Healthy Butcher's Teenie Weenies (which actually aren't so teenie after all).
- In the Travel section, Margaret Webb contributes the second in her series of stories on local food around Ontario with a feature on Prince Edward County; and Oliver Moore checks out the hip end of Halifax, with stops at Alteregos Cafe, Epicurious Morsels, Julien's Bakery, and Menz Bar, where their house brew, Menz Pale Ale, is dubbed "queer beer" by the regulars.
In the National Post, Gina Mallet treks up to North York's bastion of fine French cuisine, Auberge du Pommier, and finds that after over 20 years of business, the quality of the food and service remains as high as ever:
[Chef Jason Bangerter] has a silky complex palate and knows how to take the most effulgent ingredients and transform them into a comfort food. How else to describe his showpiece -- truffle soup or eau de foret. It comes frothed in a glass, looks like cafe au lait and hints of the most delicate leaf mould ($17).
His spin on Coquille St. Jacques ($24) is carefully calibrated -- the caramelized scallops are paired with braised Kobe beef cheeks, a subtle juxtaposition of textures and tastes sparked by wild cranberries. I have a quibble, however, about the steak tartare. It comes prepared. Kinda takes the fun out of the dish. I like to mix the raw egg yolk, capers, chopped onions, etc., into the tenderloin myself so I get it to taste just as I like it.
Also in the Post:
- Margaret Swaine reviews a trio of pinot grigios (or if you prefer, pinot gris) along with a rose and a couple of reds.
- Jason Chow soothes his fury at the continuing delay of new street food in Toronto by visiting Little India for some spicy grilled corn.
- Diane Peters reports on last Wednesday's opening of the Bloor-Borden Farmers Market.
- Bonnie Stern suggests skipping a big night out for Father's Day in favour of cooking at home instead.
