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The Berry Good Month of June

Hedonism is a word that I apply to the enjoyment of food somewhat frequently. Taste is, after all, one of the senses, and we receive great pleasure from eating well. There’s a line of thinking that says it’s hedonistic to buy imported strawberries throughout the winter, but that’s not true hedonism to me. Because the acceptance of hard flavourless imported berries pales in terms of sensual pleasure when compared to the blast of sun-warmed sweetness of a local June strawberry. The experience cannot be matched.

Sadly, I’m in the minority on that front, and Ontario farmers are now faced with stiff competition from California berry growers who can grow cheaper berries year-round, which means that many people have never known the pure delight of a sweet, fragrant local strawberry.

This month, Savour Ontario and a number of berry producers, restaurateurs and food advocates have prepared a celebration of the humble strawberry. Throughout the month of June, Torontonians can check out strawberry teas, tastings, and can even join the folks from Slow Food Toronto and go berry-picking. At Culinarium (705 Mount Pleasant Road), they’re offering fruit wine tastings, jam-making and a berries and cheese tasting.

To make things even more interesting, a number of Toronto restaurants have been paired with local strawberry farmers and from June 23rd to 29th, Ontario-grown strawberries will be prominently featured on their menus. The list of participating chefs runs the gamut from local food supporters like Mark Cutrara at Cowbell, and Owen Steinberg at Il Fornello, to Jason Bangerter at Auberge de Pommier and David Garcelon at Epic at the Fairmont Royal York. Soma Chocolatemaker is also on board, so customers can expect some strawberry and chocolate delights.

While some types of strawberries are ever-bearing and are available until the first frost in late September or October, peak berry season is the month of June. And with so many different ways to enjoy the wonders of the local berry harvest, we hope all of our readers will indulge in a little bit of berry hedonism this month. Even if you can’t make it out to any of the events or participating restaurants, drop by your local farmer’s market and grab a quart or two of June’s ruby delights. Bake them into scones or tarts, cook them into jam or just slice them up with a grind of black pepper and some whipped cream. A bowlful of local June berries is hedonism at its most brilliant.

For more information on the First Fruits of Spring Strawberry events for June, including participating restaurants, please check out the info page at Edible Toronto.