Posted by Lauren Simmons in asian, restaurant review on May 22, 2008 at 7:43 am

Matahari
39 Baldwin Street
416-596-2832
Dinner for two with two cocktails, taxes and tip included: $100

On peaceful Baldwin Street, tucked away behind Mount Sinai and a stone's throw from the AGO, culinary adventures abound. On any given night, Toronto's wisest foodies are tucking in to any number of cuisines from French to Mexican; Sushi to Indian; and everything else in between. A gem among the choices can be found at Matahari, a Malaysian/Thai restaurant with one of the strip's loveliest interiors and surely some of its most harried service staff. Despite the peaceful grandeur of the decor, the menu offers a variety of complex and authentic dishes, and makes Matahari a unique culinary destination.

A busy Saturday night at Matahari is a study in contrasts. The calming spa-like décor - a waterfall fall, complimented by soft teal and white walls lined with empowering quotes - does little to soothe the din of a packed house, mostly large groups of twenty-somethings downing colourful cocktails to quell the heat of the curries. Servers are quick to take drink orders, though with the choice of creative drinks such as the Matahari Trance ($8 - Hpnotiq, coconut rum with splash of pineapple juice and soda) and an extensive wine list, divided by varietal and featuring a number of affordable Ontario bottles, such decisions are hard to rush. When finally pressed to settle on food, we face the same challenge: the menu includes Thai standards like Mango Chicken ($15) and Red Chili Chicken ($15), but extends its reach to Malaysian fare such as Nasi Goreng ($13 - fried rice with chicken, vegetables and egg) and Assam ($20 - scallops, prawns, calamari, tomatoes and mushrooms, poached in a spicy tamarind broth). Seafood lovers, vegetarians, vegans and carnivores alike will find no shortage of spicy and flavourful choices.

A meal at Matahari best begins with the Calamari Matahari ($9). These tamarind-glazed calamari skewers, grilled and served with peanut sauce, are just the right consistency to avoid the "ew, I'm eating octopus" sensation, and the accompanying sauce offers such a kick that diners would be wise to pair them with a bottle of chilled white. Spring rolls ($8), densely stuffed with either freshly julienned veggies or with added sizzling shrimp, arrive without the typical grease-laden texture, but with a welcome crispy exterior.

Mains are best shared at a place like Matahari, especially when diners may want to try as much of the varied and unique menu as possible. The Casbah Cashew Chicken ($15) is a mainstream choice: tender chicken breast stir-fried with mushrooms, chili peppers, red onions and the requisite cashews, of course. The sauce in the dish glistens over the chicken and plentiful mushrooms, but there doesn't seem to be enough sauce to cover a spoonful of jasmine rice when the two are combined on the plate. The spice is not overly-ambitious here, but complements the woody flavours of the nuts nicely. More adventurous diners may take interest in one of the main seafood or vegan choices, such as the Sayur Lodeh ($14). This veggie dish features some less familar curry companions, such as eggplant, tofu, green beans, cabbage and tomatoes in deep orange broth. Heat overwhelms the dish's character, but the tofu manages a crisp exterior with an oh-so tender interior, while the veggies are perhaps stewed just a bit too long and start to lose their own individual flavours.

With so many main dishes, it's a wonder that Matahari's dessert menu seems tied down to sorbets and tapioca-based puddings. Still the Pandan Crepe ($8), a thin, simple thin cake served with coconut and vanilla ice cream is a sweet after-dinner treat, and it's hard to go wrong with pan-fried bananas in rum and Kahlua sauce as in the Banana Matahari ($8). The piece de resistance of dessert at Matahari is a specialized dish served only in summer - the Ais Kachang ($5.50). Typically sold in food courts and hawker centres throughout Malaysia, this dessert is certainly a unique and adventurous experience; basically a large snow-cone serving of shaved ice with various syrups and yogurts drizzled on top and with sweets inside.

While weekend evenings leave Matahari's staff strapped, running to refill water glasses and to bring piping hot dishes to expectant groups, a weeknight visit yields attentive and thoughtful service. In a city where most Thai/Malay kitchens serve Westernized fare to placate the masses, Matahari succeeds by offering unique dishes, paired with a diverse and adventurous wine list, in a peaceful space. Even with all the choice for dining on Baldwin, Matahari is a don't miss destination.