He got a big thumbs-up from Gina Mallet a couple of weeks ago, and now chef Chris Brown - who recently took over the kitchen at Perigee from Pat Riley - can bask in the glow of a second stellar review, as Joanne Kates gives his food an effusive write-up in today’s Globe & Mail:

Perigee’s culinary allusions never sacrifice flavour to theory. Among mains, the ruby-red fork-tender squab breast stands out for its creative garnish, a meditation on fresh artichokes: raw, braised and house-made crispy artichoke chips.

Ontario lamb “burger” is a play on cheeseburgers: impeccable pink roast lamb atop buttery toasted brioche and topped with France’s answer to cheddar (raw milk, of course), with a side of addictive shoestring fries and truffle-scented “ketchup.” The piri-piri guinea fowl will likely turn me off cheap churrasco chicken for life. A pool of spicy, red piri-piri sauce sits under uber-moist guinea hen with piquant grilled lemon and fennel salad and green olive salad. Hudson Bay pickerel is splendid with crab salad and fresh artichoke purée in a small pool of sweet crab bisque.

Ms. Pataki (or whoever is taking over for you during your impending maternity leave), care to make it a trifecta?

Also in the Globe:

• Lucy Waverman kicks off BBQ season with what she claims to be the perfect burger.
• Laura Serra sips a namesake Waterfalls Cosmopolitan at Waterfalls Indian Tapas Bar & Grill in Kensington Market.
• Liz Walker previews next week’s James Beard Foundation Dinner at the Drake Hotel.

In the National Post, Gina Mallet is impressed with Trios in the Marriott Eaton Centre, where they manage to serve enough variety to satisfy finicky tourists, but also keep the quality at a level good enough for the local lunch crowd:

[T]he menu is an eyebrow raiser. Executive chef Morgan Wilson has everything on it — from meatloaf sandwich to a Reuben panini, beer-battered cod and chips — you don’t see cod much these days, which is why, no doubt, the price tag is $16 –plus curry! Pad Thai!

But it’s not just comfort food–although what a smart move in a place where you want to feel as if you’re at a home away from home. I’m eating perfectly seasoned crab cakes, made from Maryland lump crab with a spicy remoulade alongside and presented with the same elegance as the wine. The regulars are equally impressed with their choices.

Also in the Post:

• Vanessa Farquharson lists some places to enjoy afternoon tea this Victoria Day weekend (or any other weekend, for that matter) - and kudos to Ms. Farquharson for not calling it “high tea”, which is a different meal entirely.
• Jason Chow tries some of the first asparagus of the season from the Riverdale Farmers Market.
• Margaret Swaine encourages everyone to try some Ontario wines.
• Sarah B. Hood says that the first rule of Shucker Club is there is no Shucker Club.
• Alison Broverman checks out the buzz on the Toronto Beekeeping Co-op.
• Patti Lane visits the Fine Wine Reserve, a wine-storage facility near King & Spadina with more security than your neighbourhood bank branch.
• Jane Mundy gives some tips on how to replace your useless lawn with a much more practical organic vegetable garden.
• Bonnie Stern recommends some classic English dishes to honour Queen Victoria.

Over in the Toronto Star, Amy Pataki finds that while there are a couple of highlights at Marron Bistro Moderne, one of Toronto’s few (if not only) high-end kosher restaurants, the food generally doesn’t live up to the expectations or the price point:

[Chef Eran] Marom cooks a perfectly delicate veal chop ($44) to order, then mucks it up by coating it in sweet powdered chestnuts (the restaurant’s namesake ingredient) and serving it with sweet potatoes.

We know he can do better based on the simplicity of a 9-ounce rib-eye steak ($36) done to a turn and served with a silver cone of addictive frites.

Obviously, Marron’s coq au vin ($28) can’t include bacon. But neither should it taste like sweet-and-sour chicken with desiccated peas and fried dried brown sponges passing as gnocchi.

There’s no excuse for the crumbly lamb hamburger ($28) so heavily seasoned with nutmeg and cinnamon that it better belongs on the dessert menu.

Alongside her review this week, Pataki has a sidebar with some responses to her article last week on tipping etiquette, and she also reports on a few recent restaurant openings and closings.

Also in the Star:

• Megan Ogilvie profiles farmer and raw milk advocate Michael Schmidt in a front page feature article, as well as an accompanying online video.
• Kim Honey reports on the shortage of farmers interested in vending at Toronto’s certified farmers markets, and lists a few of those markets in a sidebar.
• Mark Bittman whips up a simple crustless quiche.
• Gord Stimmell picks five good values from today’s Vintages release.
• Megan Ogilvie pops up again in the Ideas section, with a story on the successful experiments of U of T professor Levente Diosady to fortify salt with iron in order to help fight anemia. And with that problem solved, Prof. Diosady is now working on a soft drink fortified with protein, vitamins and minerals that could provide much needed nutritional aid in developing countries.