Sitting in front of me, the confidence in his eyes is blinding, but without a sense of arrogance. Claudio Aprile, owner and executive chef of Colborne Lane (45 Colborne Street) is indubitably confident in himself and his food. Why shouldn’t he be? He’s been featured in countless publications such as Bon Appetite, Toronto Life, InStyle, and even GQ. The New York Times compared him to the legendary Ferran Adrià, chef of Spain’s elBulli, frequently thought of as the best restaurant in the world (and where Aprile held a stagerie). One of Toronto’s most well-known food writers, James Chatto (of Toronto Life), hails Aprile as the “maestro of molecular gastronomy”.

But don’t tell him that. Aprile isn’t fan of the title and doesn’t want to be type-cast. “I hate labels,” says Aprile, “They’re too close-minded, too limiting. They don’t leave room for creativity.” He also added, “I have a lot of respect for Ferran (Adrià), but I’m my own chef, I don’t want to be compared.”

While some cooks get into the industry lured by the romantic view we see on TV of glamour and fame, there are many more that are in the kitchen because they truly have a passion for it. Aprile is certainly an artist in this world of technicians. He’s been cooking since he was 14 and feels that he didn’t choose this profession, it chose him. In spite of all his accomplishments, it’s the ability to be creative that keeps Aprile striving for more. He’s made stops in international destinations such as Spain’s elBulli, Chicago’s Alinea and Charlie Trotter’s, as well as Toronto’s North 44, but is perhaps most well known for his 6-year stint as Executive Chef at Senses.

Although his cooking style is highly technical, (I won’t say ‘molecular gastronomy’), what Aprile really wants is to help us develop a new gastronomic perspective. “I love taking low-end food and turning it into high-quality dishes,” he says, “I really want to demystify the high-end dining experience”. Colborne Lane is a result of this aversion to the traditional fine dining scene and it’s stereotypically posh attitude. Aprile wants his customers to experience something new without feeling uncomfortable or intimidated, which is clearly evident, as this is a restaurant of contradictions. While modern and sleek, it’s eclectic design and loud music, paired with constant social chatter, give off a more comfortable atmosphere than the exclusive, starchy feeling we have all undoubtedly experienced at other upscale establishments. Even the food can’t be singularly categorized. Presented with seemingly overwhelming dishes to choose from such as prawn ceviche + avocado + saffron aioli + ocean aioli + peruvian potato + smoked chili + jicama +puffed corn noodles + corn nuts; or the tea smoked squab breast + squab confit & fois gras croquette + date & chocolate sauces + cocoa crumbs + brussels sprouts (phew! I’m out of breath!), diners are pleasantly surprised with familiarities in their dishes that are unexpected from such elaborate descriptions.

Aprile’s inspiring cooking style has garnered ample attention, but where there’s praise there’s also critique. His rebellious nature has enabled him to brush off any negativity. “I don’t have much respect for a lot of food critics… I’m my own worst critic, I’m never satisfied, so I don’t need other people telling me what I should do” he says, “I’m not cooking for [critics and the media], I’m cooking for myself and my customers.” Aprile also declares, “This is an art form, and art is such a subjective thing. How can you say someone is right or wrong in what they’re doing?”

With all of Aprile’s international experience I got to wondering what he thought of our own culinary scene in Toronto.

“It’s boring,” he says, “It’s not that we don’t have talent here. There are some great chefs in Toronto, but overall there’s not enough creativity, there’s a lack of visionary restaurants.” Aprile continues on to point out, “Right now everyone’s too content to merely imitate cities like New York or Paris and it comes across as being fake… we’re also really lacking in service standards compared to other places.” While Aprile’s criticism of our beloved city may seem harsh to some, it’s clear that his opinions are a form of tough love, as he still has high hopes for the future, “Eventually the public will dictate what direction we take and there will be a shift in the local restaurant scene” he tells me. Aprile suggests that the solution to the inferiority of Toronto’s culinary scene is to refashion it into smaller, boutique-style restaurants. He says, “We need more small restaurants owned by the chefs themselves. When you’re cooking for an owner you have to do what he wants you to do, and end up in a typical cookie-cutter restaurant that’s mostly business driven, and lose the creative aspect.”

There probably aren’t many of us out there who would turn away compliments, praise, and accolades, but Aprile wouldn’t hesitate to do just that with his refusal to be the media darling that many want him to be. He’s currently in the prime of his career, and with plans under way to open a new location in the future (details of which will remain unknown by the public until he’s good and ready!) there seems to be no sign of him slowing down. So, for the time being Chef Aprile will just have to deal with the adoration and esteem from the dining community, but If you ask me, that’s not such a bad thing to have to endure.