In The Papers – Saturday May 10th

In the National Post a couple of weeks ago, Gina Mallet gave her highest rating to date - 3 1/2 stars - to Perigee. This week, she's a the opposite end of the rating spectrum with a 1/2 star review of Delux. It's a bit surprising, given the generally good buzz that the food of chef Corinna Mozo has been getting - in fact, Mallet herself offers some compliments on several dishes, most notably the roasted chicken and steak frites. But the atmosphere, noise level, and especially the service all miss the mark as far as she's concerned:

Just as we're finishing our wine, Jay comes over and says, "How would you like to enjoy your dessert in a more comfortable booth?"

"No, we're fine."

Then he had to admit he wanted the table for a large party that was now coming in. Gourmudgeon is testy. Of course we'll move, but why wasn't Jay up front right away? Why didn't he say, "Could you do us a favour?" Because that's what we're doing. We may not much like our table but to emphasize its unattractiveness suggests we've been ill-treated (and we haven't). And to move is to break a mood. Gourmudgeon says, "They could have said, 'Coffee's on the house.' "

Also in the Post:

• Adam McDowell reports that despite changes to provincial legislation last year that will allow for vendors to sell more than hot dogs and sausages, reams of bureaucratic bullshit at City Hall will ensure that we won't be getting any new street food options any time soon. In accompanying articles, McDowell and Peter J. Thompson ask a few local politicos and celebs what they like to dress their dogs with, Ben Kaplan takes a ride with ice cream man Ike Alexopoulos, and Maryam Siddiqi suggests that Toronto should look to the Dominican Republic for some good street food ideas.
• Ben Kaplan goes shopping for baked goods with French electro-pop starlet Yelle.
• Shinan Govani tells us that police chief Bill Blair really liked the risotto at the Sante Ultimate Winemakers Dinner.
• Jon Bricker and Kate Swoger slurp some tasty soup at Scarborough's Phở Vietnam.
• Margaret Swaine previews next week's New Zealand Wine Festival with reviews of six Kiwi varietals.
• Sarah B. Hood discovers some ancient apple trees at Spadina House.
• Bonnie Stern offers some mom-approved recipes for Mother's Day.

Over in the Globe & Mail, Joanne Kates finds that Simple Bistro lives up to its name perfectly, and she considers that to be a very good thing:

[Chef Masayuki] Tamaru, despite his personal lineage, is a resolute Francophile. He does sweet little frites with steak or mussels. His magret de canard is ruby-red, fork-tender duck breast served over tasty chard with caramelized sweet-potato sticks. His halibut is correctly cooked.

Even risotto is credible at Simple Bistro, rich with the sweetness of Jerusalem artichokes and the earthy savoury of shiitake mushrooms. Cornish hen has tender flesh and crisp skin and is served with a grand pile of mashed potatoes topped with crisped onions, smoky bacon and sausage.

Also in the Globe:

• Beppi Crosariol says that malbec is the new shiraz, or new merlot, take your pick.
• Sasha Chapman profiles The Cookbook Store, where they've been increasing the culinary knowledge of Torontonians for 25 years.
• Lucy Waverman rounds up some restaurant brunch recipes that you can make at home.

In the Toronto Star, Amy Pataki (who, if the rumours are true, will soon be going on maternity leave) forgoes a restaurant review this week in favour of a treatise on the etiquette of tipping. Most of what she writes is pretty obvious to anyone who eats out semi-frequently, although some may argue with her on the "tip based on pre-tax vs. post-tax amount" issue. She says 15 per cent (or 20 for especially good service) should be calculated on the final total, including all taxes. But many people (including, it must be admitted, yours truly) tend to use the pre-tax amount of the calculations, especially back when the taxes added up to 15%, making the figuring out the tip a piece of cake. So I guess I've been a cheapskate for years without even knowing it.

Also in the Star:

• Gord Stimmell rates a mixed bag of five wines, ranging from a dry and floral rosé to a big and juicy malbec.
• Megan Ogilvie gives good marks to The Wall Street Diet, which offers advice on healthy food alternatives for busy businesspeople.
• Mark Bittman makes some quick and easy stir-fried snow peas.