While they’ve never had a beer available here on a year-round basis, Oregon’s Rogue Ales have become of the most popular American craft breweries in Ontario thanks to the frequent appearances of their beers as part of the LCBO’s seasonal beer promotions.

Brews like their decadent Chocolate Stout, spicy Half-E-Weizen, and rich & roasty Wild Irish Rogue Stout have all been well-received during their short stays on the shelves, and if the rumours are true, we’ll soon be seeing their best selling Dead Guy Ale on the LCBO general list.

In the meantime, though, the Spring seasonal beer release currently available in select LCBO outlets includes the first retail appearance in Ontario of Rogue Brutal Bitter (LCBO 909770 - $5.95/650 ml).

Previously available only as a private order product from Rogue’s Canadian importer, Esprit Agencies, Brutal Bitter may sound like an intimidating beer based on the name alone, but in comparison to the aggressively hopped pale ales that have become more and more common in the American (and to a lesser extent, Canadian) craft brewing scene in recent years, it’s actually somewhat tame.

The name was likely more suitable with it was first brewed in 1996 for the 20th anniversary of Horse Brass Pub, a near-legendary beer bar in Portland, Oregon. Described by brewmaster John Maier as a cross between the traditional UK ale styles Extra Special Bitter and India Pale Ale, it’s a full flavoured ale with a level of hop bitterness that was probably considered extreme for the time. But even if it’s no longer as “Brutal” when compared to its modern brethren, it’s still an excellent ale.

Pouring a slightly hazy reddish-gold with a creamy white head, the beer has an inviting aroma of bready malt and citrus-like hops, with some floral and slightly soapy backing notes. The crisp body makes it a great palate cleanser when eating spicy and/or greasy food, as does the flavour, which is hop-forward without being completely over the top with the bitterness. Some notes of grapefruit and spruce rise and linger in the finish, but won’t tear your tastebuds to shreds, and while the alcohol level of 6.2% is a bit higher than an everyday beer, it’s still reasonable enough that one can down a big bottle (or two) without getting soused. Which is always a plus with a beer as tasty and drinkable as this one.