My first encounter with escargots wasn’t a very good one. I was about seven at the time. Rather than being repulsed by the thought of eating a creature that left a trail of slime as it crawled around the back garden, I was quite keen on the idea. My mother had been given a “kit” comprising a tin of snails, a dozen or so snail shells, and four double-pronged forks. Mom set to work preparing the dish, stuffing the wee snails into their shells, sealing them inside with cold garlic butter, and then popping them under the broiler until the butter was melted and bubbling. Unfortunately some vital step in the preparation had been overlooked (I still don’t know which one it was), and the snails, once dug from their shells with those special pointy forks, had the taste and texture of large pencil erasers that had been stewed in a puddle of buttery mud.

Yet for some reason, that first experience with escargots left me undeterred. Which is a good thing, otherwise I would have missed out on a few delightful gastropodous experiences in our fair city.

The Keg Steakhouse (Dixon Rd at Carlingview, and other locations throughout the GTA) version of escargots ($6.99) arrives at the table piping hot and all a-sizzle. It appears to be covered in a cheesey crust – parmesan perhaps? Our friendly server informs me that it’s simply the escargot butter, however he does add that some of the regular patrons often request some “nacho cheese mix” melted on top. Uh huh. The Keg’s snails used to arrive in their shells way back when, but now their nakedness is tucked beneath mushroom caps in individual little crock divots. I poke one with my fork and the hot butter squirts. Or perhaps I should say “butter”. Because I’m not convinced that the liquid ooze in which both snails and mushroom caps are submerged is 100% butter. Melted butter isn’t supposed to be orange where I come from. The menu gives no indication as to the ingredients other than garlic and herbs, and while I can taste the garlic, the herbs are indistinguishable. However, in spite of the odd-coloured oily sauce and the mystery seasoning, the snails themselves aren’t half bad at all.

Now I don’t think I’m alone when I say I often order escargots just because they’re a nice vehicle for lots of flavourful melted butter demanding to be sopped up with chunks of crusty bread. Unfortunately, the Keg’s escargots are accompanied by a single floury roll that has all the flavour, texture, and character of a supermarket hamburger bun. But no matter really. I wasn’t particularly tempted to soak up the last of the “butter” anyway.

But things get better…

The escargots offered at La Petite France (3317 Bloor Street West) are refreshing in their simplicity. Sans shells or fancy snail-specific crockery, they arrive as a juicy dozen ($8) in a warm shallow bath of herb and garlic butter that is, according to the menu, “whisky infused”. Can’t say the whisky infusion is discernible, but I confess that I wasn’t really looking too hard for it anyway. The earthy flavour of the snails is enhanced by the delicate butter sauce - not too garlicky or heavy-handed with the herbs. A few swipes of the accompanying baguette, and my dish leaves the table so clean, I’m almost embarrassed. Almost.

Promoting itself as “the best French restaurant in Chinatown”, Batifole (744 Gerrard Street East) presents cassolette d’escargot à la Papa ($8). The menu’s English description provides that these escargots are prepared with the chef’s father’s “secret sauce”. Served in a soup crock and garnished with long slivers of crisp-toasted baguette, these tender-sweet snails are a rich beginning with their sauce of butter and cream, flecked with minced scallions and red pepper. With the crock being a deep little vessel, plunging its depths to scoop up the remaining cream sauce without an available spoon is a bit of a challenge. But don’t be discouraged. Batifole is generous with its bread (supplied by the Brick Street Bakery) so dive in with a crusty slice or three and have at it. Papa knew what he was doing with his contribution to this generous appetizer.

For those who just don’t feel sufficiently inclined to venture out to a city bistro (or the Keg), one may at least decide to explore the frozen hors d’oeuvres section of the nearest Loblaws and try the President’s Choice Escargots en Brioche ($7.49 for twelve). Ten minutes at 350F produces crispy little round bread boxes, each containing a nice-sized mollusk generously flavoured with herbed garlic butter.

Loblaws stores also carry Escal brand escargots ($8.99 for eighteen), located in the frozen seafood section. Imported from France, these are packaged in a charming (albeit somewhat silly) basket. Old style, these escargots are stuffed into snail shells and walled in with a goodly wad of garlic-parsley butter. Pick up a French stick to go with these as that lovely butter runs all over whatever container one might choose to cook these in, and it shouldn’t go to waste. If you can read French the Escal company’s website provides some interesting info regarding how their snails are harvested and prepared.

Escargots. Perfect for when these cold winter days have one feeling a little sluggish.