Posted by Greg Clow in in the papers, news and media on January 19, 2008 at 12:31 pm

In the Toronto Star today, Amy Pataki is on a quest for the perfect scone. She's disappointed by the examples she's served at Niche, Ella's Uncle and Madeleines, Cherry Pie and Ice Cream, but gives props to the pastry at Wagamama and the Drake Hotel Corner Café, the latter of which has her especially enthralled:

If I were to write a classified ad for a good breakfast scone, it would read like this: "Wanted - Subtly sweet baked good with delicate crust and tender interior. Must be buttery, light and flaky. Blueberries preferred. Please apply weekdays before 9 a.m."

The Drake's $1.50 blueberry scone fits the bill. Pastry chef David Chow uses two kinds of leavening for the rise and whipping cream instead of buttermilk for richness. Despite the profusion of blueberries, the interior remains white (instead of stained blue from squished fruit) due to kid-glove handling; Chow eschews a rolling pin and pats out the dough by hand. Fruitiness is foremost.

Also in the Star: Gord Stimmell recommends five whites from today's Vintages release; a wire service piece by Mark Bittman gives a recipe for Clementine Clafoutis; and Noah Richler ruminates on local food in a special section of "meditations on the environment".

Over in the Globe & Mail, Joanne Kates shares our opinion that Tati Bistro is très bon:

Rabbit dijonnaise, a bistro classic, features tender meaty rabbit in creamy sauce generously spiked with Dijon mustard. Many people are afraid to eat rabbit, which in its domestic form (the only kind we get here) is, in terms of flavour and texture, kissin' cousin to chicken. In Brion's hands, Peter Rabbit's invasion of Mr. McGregor's garden becomes felicitous.

Roast chicken is plump and moist, and to most palates would not be overcooked; its accompanying gravy is loaded with flavour and of good clarity. But his best entree is black cod with roasted garlic and truffle mashed potatoes. What better cheer on a frigid winter's eve than the combo of perfectly cooked cod beside a great deal of garlic that has been slowly roasted to bring out its sweetness?

Also in the Globe: Beppi Crosariol praises a few malbecs and several other selections from today's Vintages release; and Lucy Waverman suggests a menu for a Robbie Burns supper that includes that well-known Scottish delicacy, risotto.

In the National Post, Gina Mallet visits Kaiseki Yu-zen Hashimoto, the much-acclaimed Mississauga restaurant that seats six and requires diners to order their Japan-sourced kaiseki meals a week in advance. While she greatly enjoys the unique experience, she also finds it somewhat perplexing:

I feel ennui. Too many tastes scattered about. This food is a lesson. I'm not so much eating as assimilating a culture, a country, a history. My meal looks exquisite but it challenges every preconception I have about eating, which is based on my own lush, extravagant food culture. It's going to take some digesting.

Also in the Post: Michael Vaughan covers the Argentinian delights in today's Vintages release; Jon Bricker and Kate Swoger find that the food at Scarborough's Red Chili Chinese Restaurant tastes like burning (but in a good way); and Bonnie Stern says that soup is good food.