Sushi Café Myoung Dong Soon To Fu Korea Restaurant
620 Bloor Street West
416-588-2700
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and Soju; no dessert: $42

Sushi Café Myoung Dong Soon To Fu Korea Restaurant is found in the heart of Koreatown. The steamed up windows show pictures of the many varieties of sushi found inside and boast of a “buy two get one free” special. This is a bit confusing since sushi is Japanese and this, most certainly, is a Korean restaurant.

The interior of this small establishment is a bit aggressive, with bright orange walls and panel mirrors. A single palm tree plant hugs one of the corners. The sushi bar is tucked in the back, but even so, it still seems out of place.

The service is prompt and extremely friendly. Two single sheet menus are presented. One has a wide assortment of sushi. The sushi café roll ($15) is the most expensive, followed by the tempura roll ($7.50). More typical sushi fare, such as the California roll ($4.50), tuna roll ($4.50) and avocado roll ($3.95) are more moderately priced. We order the tempura roll and the tuna roll, with a California roll thrown in for free, as an appetizer.

After some contemplation we order the soy bean stew, bulgogi and bibimbap from the original Korean menu, which speaks highly of the positive benefits of soondubu (tofu) and calls it the king of all protein; however, there is only one dish on the menu that features this miracle ingredient -soy bean paste chigae (stew) ($7.95). Other items include popular favourites such as dolsot bibimbap, mixed vegetables and rice served with hot sauce and an egg in a hot stone bowl ($7.95); gamja tang, pork bone stew served with a bowl of rice ($6); bulgogi dolsotbab, marinated beef served on a hot stone dish with rice ($8.95); and yaki mandu, fried dumplings ($6.95).

Typical of most Korean meals, many complementary sides arrive before the food we ordered. Portions of fried mackerel, kimchi (spicy fermented cabbage), bean sprouts, seaweed, and woo ong (a sweet Korea root vegetable) quickly fill the table. Soju – Korean rice vodka similar to Japanese sake – is ordered and the waitress is both surprised and mildly impressed we know of the alcohol and are brave enough to drink the strong liquor.

Our food arrives quickly with the rice arriving separately in stone bowls. The waitress serves up the rice and fills the stone bowls with barley rice tea. This is to soak off the remaining rice that sticks to the sides, for an after-meal treat. The bibimbap – ordered for a vegetarian – is served with beef. The waitress is embarrassed and apologetic. She is prepared to return the dish, however we opt to make due and pick off the meat and pass it to a more carnivorous diner. The meal is very communal. We begin to eat the food for fear it will get cold, even though our appetizer has not yet arrived.

The Soybean Stew is steaming hot, in a stone bowl, with a generous portion of vegetables and tofu. It is spicy with a slightly fermented aftertaste from the soybeans. The bulgogi is thinly sliced and well prepared; the meat is flavoured with a combination of soy sauce and sugar making it sweet and savoury. The bibimpap could be served with a more balanced rice to vegetable ratio, as it is a bit heavy on the rice. This dish is appropriate for those who like to control the amount of heat in their dish, since the hot sauce is mixed in at the table. All the servings of mackerel are polished off. Although the fish looks a bit unappetizing, the texture is surprisingly light and the taste rather delicate for the characteristically oily fish.

Several shots of soju are taken. It is indeed potent and it is easy to see why the waitress was so surprised we ordered it. It tastes like what I imagine rubbing alcohol to taste like.

The sushi arrives after we’ve eaten half the meal. The tempura roll, fully deep fried, has a taste and texture unique for sushi. Unfortunately, the rice is overcooked and the centre – a mixture of salmon and mayonnaise – too soft. The California and tuna rolls look pleasing to the eye, however, the rice is now undercooked and the fish a bit strong.

The Korean dishes in this restaurant are served with a rigorous perfection that comes with years of experience cooking a national cuisine. The sushi, however, seems out of place and awkwardly thrown together to add a seemingly more popular option to the menu.

The menu does not offer a dessert option; instead the soaking rice is sampled. The baked on rice mixed with the barely green tea is certainly a different way to end off a meal. It is much lighter, and lacks the sweetness associated with dessert.

Sushi Café Myoung Dong Soon To Fu Korea restaurant seems to be having an identity crisis. Don’t be fooled! The restaurant features its sushi menu prominently, but it’s the Korean food that keeps the place humming. The sushi was added to the menu in the fall of last year and it is obvious the effort is an attempt to bring in more business. The owners, however, would benefit from realizing it’s the Korean menu that will keep customers coming back for more.