Adam’s Shawarma
1910 Kipling Avenue
416-241-1114
Lunch for two with all taxes, tip and soft drinks: $20

You can’t spell “shawarma” without the “warm”, so Adam’s sounded particularly appealing as a lunch-stop on a blisteringly cold day in January.

With an address that places it almost directly under the 409 overpass, Adam’s Shawarma is not situated in the most attractive of locations. And it’s not easy to get to, even by car. If driving in from the south, one has to make a left on Belfield Road and swing around to get into the parking lot. But never mind the aesthetics and the logistics. It’s the food that’s worth the visit for anyone who finds themselves in the area, perhaps comparing ceramic tile prices between the nearby Rona on Belfield and Home Depot on Kipling. The former provides hot dogs from a cart; the latter houses a Harvey’s. Adam’s Shawarma is welcome addition to the light industrial/home improvement big box store neighbourhood.

A family-run business that opened six months ago, Adam’s is bright with natural sunlight and is sparklingly clean; the staff is friendly and eager to help. One of my guests had never tried falafel before and was curious to try it; our server informed us that “Here, we do it right”, and explained that Adam’s falafel mixture does not come out of a box, but from dried chickpeas soaked overnight and prepared fresh on the premises. For falafel virgins, individual falafel balls are available for sampling at the modest investment of $0.50 each. My guest chooses the mammoth falafel wrap ($3.99) and isn’t disappointed. The falafel are crisp and delicate, and their texture holds up nicely against the rest of the moist-y ingredients (lettuce, tomatoes, garlic sauce, and onions) rolled up with it.

The lentil soup ($1.99) is thick and hot and, after a couple of spoonfuls, I almost forget that it’s minus 17C outside. I get through half the large bowl when I decide I must stop if I’m going to enjoy the rest of my order.

I order the chicken shawarma ($4.99) on whole-wheat pita. The chicken is mildly seasoned, but I find it drier and chewier than I would have liked. The tomato garnish, however, is a pleasant surprise. January in Toronto usually means they’re watery-pink and pulpy, but Adam’s tomatoes are meaty and sweet.

A side of hummus ($3.99) is attractively presented in its take-out container. Topped with whole chickpeas, chopped parsley and shiny with drizzled pools of olive oil, it is creamy, smooth and tahini-rich. This hummus fan would have cheered a touch more garlic, but I don’t have to go back to work after lunch and share an enclosed space with innocent co-workers or assist well-meaning do-it-yourselfers. Perhaps the light touch with the ol’ Allium sativum is in deference to the neighbourhood regulars who pop in for their midday meal and don’t wish to return to their workplace all pungent-like.

Which might also explain the unbalanced composition of the tabbouleh salad ($3.99) - light on the bulgur and mucho heavy on the parsley. Not exactly a crisis, but given the lack of garlic I taste in the meal so far, the high proportion of parsley in this tabbouleh is overkill. The lemon juice dressing is needlessly harsh and overpowers the delicate vibrancy of the rest of the salad’s simple ingredients. Perhaps a slight tweaking of this Middle Eastern classic is in order.

We certainly didn’t need it, but one guest and I order the baklava ($1.99) for dessert. It, like the falafel, is crisp and delicate, and refreshingly clean of an often over-generous dousing of sweet honey-syrup. Guest and I actually finish the thing.

Adam’s Shawarma business cards state that “all [their] Dishes are 100% Halal”. Some of their other items that tempted included their baba ghannouge (sic) and rice pudding. Full dinner platters are also offered ($7.99) as well as breakfast (3 eggs, toast, coffee/tea - $3.99).

It’s a cozy and inviting place in a rather bleak landscape. Adam’s version of Middle Eastern comfort food, coupled with efficient and friendly service, is just the ticket when the wind chill reaches absolute zero. And with winter just really getting started, I predict at least one return trip before spring rolls around.