Viva Tastings
409 College Street
416-506-0054

“This is a different kind of place,” says Karen Viva-Haynes. “You come in here to slow down. Get a glass of wine, walk around the store and just breathe, which we all need to do.”

“Here” is Viva Tastings, which a year ago supplanted Quizno’s on a College Street corner lot, bringing a refined palate and innovative mind to the outer reaches of Kensington. This is the storefront that represents a stall that’s been in St. Lawrence Market for the past six years or so.

Unlike the mad hustle down on Front Street, Viva Tastings is an absolutely serene environment where streetcars go by unheard and anything outside the large glass windows seems miles away. The soft instrumental jazz probably helps. So too do the small “tastings” she serves that are equally appealing to both eye and tongue. The best walking around and breathing is done in front of the long counter displaying Viva-Haynes’ artful morsels.

Artful is more than an adjective; it’s the truth. A former Ontario College of Art and Design student, Viva-Haynes seems to be an artist first and a chef second. But that seems improbable when sampling her gourmet-to-go wares.

Under the glass meant to replicate a jewelry shop are a slew of carefully constructed appetizers. Sit and ponder the wide selection of tartes, salads, phyllo-wrapped creations and dishes that don’t lend themselves to a brief description. (Prices range from $1.75 to $15.) A couple of standouts are tiny bits of salmon wrapped up like a present in rice paper and a must-have mushroom, herb and crème fraiche empanada. Most notably she presents terrines, cheese delicately layered with items like asparagus, roasted carrot, chardonnay, cognac, and pesto. At $1.50 per oz. they are definitely worth the money.

Viva-Haynes, who is Cordon Bleu-trained, told me she approaches food with visual impact in mind. Texture and colour are vital. “My artwork is about layers and food is also about layers.” Each individual flavour is meant to pounce forth, never lost in the shuffle.

A chalkboard reveals larger offerings, including a salmon capellini with vodka dill cream sauce; honey rosemary lamb loin and an “Exotic Moroccan Tasting Course.” This last one is phyllo enveloping a delicious mix of roasted squash, organic hummus, caramelized shallots, pistachios and cranberries.

Take the glass of wine to the back wall and find ready-to-go items, including jewelled couscous; fig and red cabbage salad with lime toasted papitas; caramelized cauliflower with raisins and pine nuts; beef paprikash with spaetzle; and quesadillas that put cheese and chicken to shame. Practically begging to be purchased is guacamole fused with pears, grapes and pomegranates.

All products that are not her own can be trusted to be above-par. “There is nothing on my shelf that I have not tasted,” Viva-Haynes says modestly. “I won’t settle for anything mediocre.” The shop boasts hand-selected artisan cheeses, olive oil, antipasto, vinegars and chocolate among many others. Viva-Haynes knows where they all come from — all small independent operations.

Everything she constructs herself (“cooks” or “prepares” doesn’t seem appropriate) is as local and organic as possible. I’m sure she’d explain this and more during one of her many cooking classes. One involves trumping fears of phyllo. When not rising at 4am to hit the market, or preparing and serving dishes in the shop Viva-Haynes is catering cocktail parties — some of which occur inside the shop at night.

One night a few weeks ago, the Archaeological Society had 55 people in the shop for a party. At the same time, she ran a 55-person party at a home in Rosedale. Another recent event was a Molson party where she built a menu that paired dishes with beer. She also runs a full-scale catering business. I would imagine a cocktail party becomes more of an hors d’oeuvres event with her help.In addition to all of this, Viva-Haynes also offers cooking classes at the shop each Tuesday evening from 6 to 9pm and the $90 fee includes instruction, the food and a glass of wine. Previous classes have included planning a cocktail party; how Tony Way (C-Food Restaurant) prepares seafood; Moroccan tapas; stocks and soups; and crepe making.

Viva Tastings is a success story of an artist who conceived her “concept” and tested it out in Toronto’s most venerable market. When that caught on, she opened a shop. Her daughter Kali (of Kali’s Crepes) joined her but has since been lured by a design firm that caught wind of her expertly-designed crepe cart. (Viva-Haynes is now in charge of the crepes too.)

So it is only mom left in a shop that both soothes and stimulates each sense. Foodies can stroll into the spacious, light room and allow the artist to guide them through a meal of samples. One thing is for sure: they would be in good hands.