Posted by Lisa Tai in asian, bistros, restaurant review on November 5, 2007 at 2:11 pm

Ninth Gate Korean Bistro
11 Jarvis Street East
416-981-1919
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and wine: $55

Over the past year, I have become quite enamoured with Korean cuisine. On a quest motivated by my belly and palate, I continue to seek out my favourite dishes at both well-known locations and obscure gems.

Since Seoul, the capital of Korea, was once a walled city with 8 gates, the owners of Ninth Gate Korean Bistro have “opened the 9th gate to offer [their] patrons this gateway to the unique tastes and flavours of Korean foods.” Located at Front & Jarvis Streets in Old St. Lawrence Market, this seemingly upscale establishment provided a casual and comfortable atmosphere.

My companion, Adam, and I immediately took note of the eclectic music selection, a desirable addition to any evening out. The white furniture and dark wood floors and wall accents have become part of the typical design concept of these types of trendy Asian restaurants. Apparently, the light and clean design was reflected in those same qualities present in the flavours of the food.

With a varied menu of items in the categories of Starters, Salads, Soups, BiBimBop, Sura Sang, Korean BBQ, Noodles, and Yori ranging from $3.50 - $26.95, Ninth Gate offered a modernized take on traditional Korean fare that definitely worked well on paper.

Shortly after ordering, we received the complimentary pan chan that is customarily served with Korean meals. This particular combination of kimchee (a little too spicy), sweet soybeans (a little too tough), and pickled daikon (fresh & clean) was nothing spectacular.

The savoury Pajun ($5.95), a mixed seafood and scallion pancake, was served with a sweet dipping sauce. This simple circular pan-fried delight with minimal ingredients presented a superb balance of flavours. Arguably, Korea’s most famous dish, the Chap Chae ($4.50), glass noodles smothered in peppers, onions, and carrots certainly made my top 3 list. The room temperature noodles were firm and the subtle seasoning and right amount of sesame oil allowed the sweet potato flavour to shine.

Not one to drink anything but red wine with meals, I was intrigued enough by the cocktail menu to try 2 drinks. Although Soju, a potato beverage native to Korea with a taste similar to vodka, was used in many of the concoctions, I selected familiar alcohol. Almond Joy ($6.95), a mixture of malibu rum, amaretto, crème de cacao, and milk tasted less alcoholic than milky, and I wondered if they forgot to add the first 3 ingredients. Executive Sunrise ($6.95), a mixture of tequila, chambord, orange, and lemon-lime was a bit sharp and left an unpleasant taste in my mouth. Both were to be sipped, not gulped, making them appropriate accompaniments for any meal.

According to Adam, the Chicken Katsu ($10.95), a lightly crusted chicken breast with ginger soy, was neither too greasy nor too heavy, as he had expected. I appreciated the natural flavour of the Yeohun (14.95), a salmon filet marinated with ginger soy sauce. Served with white rice and a fancy version of pan chan, consisting of marinated bean sprouts and tendrils of spicy daikon, the firm but moist buttery texture of the fish was complemented well by its accompaniments.

My mouth watered at the thought of tasting the flourless chocolate soufflé, but I opted for the flawlessly refreshing green tea ice cream ($3.50). Chocolate has never appeared on the menu of any Asian restaurant that I have frequented, so I played it safe with this Japanese-born creation. Neither too sugary nor too frozen, this dessert was smooth with a distinct green tea flavour and authentic ice creamy texture.

Due to the simplicity of its presentation and preparation, I probably could have made most of these dishes at home. I realize that this is what I enjoy most about eating Korean. It is simple, but not plain. It is comfort food, but it isn’t necessarily heavy, sweet, or full of empty calories.

Perhaps, the menu could have been more refined, but I like having options. Using Korean ingredients and tradition as a foundation for introducing patrons to the plethora of possibilities of Asian-inspired cuisine could have proved to be a precarious undertaking, but Ninth Gate has succeeded in cultivating an approach that will appeal to various people.

Overall, Ninth Gate offered an unpretentious dining experience and an extremely reasonably priced menu. This would be a suitable choice for either first date, special occasion, schmoozefest, or an unplanned evening out.

The unforgettable downside of the otherwise lovely evening: the grumpy server with no sense of humour. A big fan of good service, I am not impressed when it is lukewarm. Nevertheless, I will definitely return to assess the Dolsut BiBimBap, one of my Korean favourites. Perhaps, I’ll make room for that chocolate souffle too.

Photo taken from the Ninth Gate website.