Posted by Greg Clow in in the papers, news and media on September 22, 2007 at 3:14 pm

You know that friend who always manages to follow every compliment with a criticism or two? They say things like "She's got such a pretty face - too bad she's so fat", or "That shirt looks good on you - but what's up with the ugly pants?"

Well, that's the approach Joanne Kates takes in her review of The Citizen in today's Globe & Mail. Every positive comment is followed by a negative, giving the whole thing a somewhat schizophrenic tone:

House-made merguez lamb sausages are marvellously flavoured and perfectly chewy; the ribs appetizer, however tender, has a weird flavour undertone. Vanilla? Anise? Not on my ribs, thank you anyway.

Chef does a marvellously crisp duck confit, and equally credible light gnocchi with moist braised rabbit, although I would not choose to garnish it with frozen peas at harvest time. His risotto of duck is impeccable in texture - al dente rice and creamy "sauce" - but again he and I part company on aesthetic choices. To my palate, duck is both too meaty and not sweet enough to give the rice the flavour boost it needs to be great risotto.

(An aside about the ribs: apparently, no-one informed Ms. Kates that they're prepared using Dr. Pepper in the sauce, which would explain the "weird flavour" that she couldn't place.)

Also in the Globe:

• Beppi Crosariol writes mainly about a bunch of BC wines that aren't available in Ontario, although a couple of upcoming Vintages picks get quick mentions as well.
• Lucy Waverman gets ready for fall with some challenging dishes suited for cool weather dining.
• Sasha Chapman makes us very hungry for bivalves with an article about oysters.

Over in the National Post, Gina Mallet takes a look at the politics of pasta before tucking into some delicious Italian dishes at Zucca Trattoria:

Chef Andrew Milne-Allan is a scholar-gastronome for whom authenticity is as important as taste. In fact, he took off the menu his utterly delicious smoked eggplant puree, a pale green pool of essence of eggplant, the consistency of cream, and with a subtly nutty flavour, because it wasn't authentic. Just genius, I thought regretfully.

OK, I'll settle for the museum menu. The simple menu is adventurous, a challenge. There are six pasta dishes (they come in two sizes, appetizer and second course). I've never even heard of casonsei Ampezzano, which turns out to be a half-moon raviolo stuffed with beet and ricotta and accompanied by poppyseed butter sauce and smoked ricotta salata cheese. What's that? Ricotta salata is a springy version of ricotta. It is with such delicate variations that food transcends the ordinary. This is a beautifully integrated dish with the pasta itself as the star.

Also in the Post:

• Michael Vaughan recommends a few flavoured and fortified wines and liqueurs, as well as some Aussie wines.
• Mark Medley reviews last weekend's Slow Food Picnic at the Brickworks.
• Jason Chow satisfies his sweet tooth with honey from Dutchman's Gold bee farm.
• Bonnie Stern cooks with apples, and Janet Groene cooks with fire.

In the Toronto Star, Amy Pataki reviews and rates five pot pies, with the $39(!) lobster version at Far Niente coming a distant last, while the much more traditional and unassuming chicken pot pie at Brassaii comes out on top:

With its profound chicken flavour, perfectly textured meat and vegetables, and crisp crust, Brassaii's chicken pot pie is a delicious throwback. Even the tiny lumps of flour thickening the gravy are just like Mom's, although executive chef Danny McCallum acknowledges that a professional kitchen should do better. That's generous of him, considering that, for all intents and purposes, he has no competition. His pie takes the cake.

Also in the Star:

• Gordon Stimmell picks five great value wines - four of them below twenty bucks - from the latest Vintages line-up.
• Susan Sampson prepares Kellie Pickler's favourite dish, calamari.
• In the Ideas section, Cameron Smith wonders why we don't have mandatory food and nutrition education in our schools.
• In the Travel section, Heather Greenwood Davis reports on the New Orleans Wine & Food Experience, an annual charity event that raises millions of dollars for the community.
• In the Homes section, Vicky Sanderson tests out a few handy appliances for your kitchen counter, from crock pots to coffee makers.