Posted by Paul Wernick in pastries, shops on August 16, 2007 at 2:27 pm

Hansen's Danish Pastry Shop
1017 Pape Avenue
416-425-8877

Pape north of the Danforth is a somewhat gritty neighbourhood, filled with oddly named businesses such as Coffee Lime Café and Eleven-11 discount store. It seems like a funny place for a Danish food store but Hansen’s has been a fixture in East York for forty years.

I’m old enough to remember the Danish Food Centre on Bloor near Balmuto: so Scandinavian, so clean, so functional and well lit. Open faced sandwiches (smorrebrod) with bodum coffee. I used to go there with my girlfriend. I proposed to her there and suggested a passionate getaway to Legoland – the original Legoland in Billund, Denmark. She broke my heart. Such is the passion and folly of youth.

Thus springs my affinity for Denmark. My eyes are moist as I enter the door of this small family-run bakery. The display case is packed with cookies, cupcakes, muffins and tarts. Hansen’s, I learn, used to be a supplier of the Danish Food Centre.

Today I want authentic Danish and there is an authentic member of the Hansen clan to assist me in my selection. Wienerbrod (Vienna Bread) is a staple food in Denmark and cherry and almond varieties are available today. This is the real “Danish” not the frosting-covered roll we’re accustomed to in Toronto. The story goes that in the nineteenth century striking bakers in Denmark were replaced by bakers from Vienna. By the time the strike was settled Danes had developed a taste for these rich, light pastries.

Kransekage (Ringcake) can be ordered in advance. Kransekage is tall, conical cake constructed from concentric rings of marzipan. It is served for traditional occasions like weddings, confirmations, and on New Years Eve. Kransekage is served with coffee and usually accompanied by a glass of brandy or Champagne.

There’s also a cream puff - Fyldte Vanbakkelser I think it’s called – which is another Danish favourite. Not all or even the majority of the baked goods here are of Danish origin. I had heard their butter tarts are excellent. Two kinds are offered – regular and a slightly more expensive “home-style” butter tart. I opt for the home-style which has a pie-like crust.

For those who want to deepen their Scandinavian experience beyond Ikea, there’s smoked eel (try it on rye bread), imported candies, various Danish condiments and, of course, pickled herring.

I take my cornucopia home and share it with my family. The Wienerbrod is airy, rich and flakey, yearning for a bold cup of coffee to join it. My daughter squeals with delight as she gouges out the custard from her cream puff. The butter tarts are syrupy and golden, perfect if you subscribe to the runny school of butter tarts. All in all this turned out to be a successful dessert blitz. Mind you, I’ll have to swim to Denmark to burn off these calories.

Ah, yes Denmark. Birthplace of my beloved Lego, and of Vikings, clogs, havarti cheese and Hamlet. We need more Denmark in Canada. We desperately need more smoked eels.