Posted by Matthew Yanko in italian, restaurant review on July 9, 2007 at 2:08 pm

The Big Ragu
1338 Lansdowne Avenue
416-654-7248
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and soda: $73

Recently, on one of those steaming hot summer days, I found myself walking down The Corsa Italia on St. Clair Avenue. When I hit Lansdowne I was tempted to go home, because the strip appeared to be over. Then from the corner of my eye I saw a tiny little restaurant across the way called The Big Ragu. It was unassuming and quaint, not the type of place that I would normally notice.

Be it fate or luck I noticed this one, and for some reason was compelled to try it. The interior was dark and well kept. It felt clean and cool and was an oasis from the sweltering summer heat.

To start, I decided on the grilled Calamari ($12) and lemon San Pellegrino ($2.95) to drink. The calamari was succulent and tender, and not overwhelmed by any flavours or batter, but only seasoned lightly with salt, pepper and a bit of olive oil. The salad was simple and elegant, consisting of high quality mixed greens, tomato, red onion, and topped with an exceptional balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

Next came the pasta, a penne in tomato sauce, topped with a dollop of ricotta cheese ($15). It was zesty and light – the pasta was firm but not chewy, and the tomato sauce found perfect balance between being too runny and too chunky. The peppercorn and herb flavours filled the inside of the penne. On top of it all was a nice portion of ricotta. This cheese was fresh and milky, and worked in tandem with the acidity of the tomato sauce and the lingering spice from the peppercorn. I chose not to combine the cheese with the sauce, but instead to take small forkfuls of it with the pasta, creating a beautifully light and creamy texture.

The pizza (Tri Colori: $11) at The Big Ragu is to die for, and was probably my favourite dish of this meal. It was simple, but made with great care. The crust was thin (not brittle and hard) and firm with a soft crunch and an ever so slight chewiness in the centre, while the texture was equally matched with salty, oily and browned flavours. The crust was covered with a thin layer of sauce, cooked with herbs and spices for flavour. The rest of the ingredients, including arugula, tomato, red onion, black olives and dried herbs, were uncooked, making the pizza fresh and light (which seemed exciting and unusual when I thought about almost every other pizza I have eaten!). Even though the toppings were uncooked they managed to hold together with the pizza base, with the flavours and textures so well thought-out that it looked and tasted amazing. I know I will return for this pizza again and again.

Normally I’m not a big dessert person. To save my horizontal expansion I often skip it. On such an occasion I had to try something sweet, however, because the meal itself was fantastic. I tried the Nutella cake ($7) with espresso to pair ($1.95). The cake was decadent – oozing with chocolate ganache and nutella inside and smothered with ganache and hazelnut on the outside. The espresso was tart and cut through the richness of the cake very well. I ate the whole thing not saying one word about it because I was piling cake in my mouth so fast I could barely get a word out.

Talking with my server throughout the meal, she told me about many interesting aspects of the restaurant, like how they try to organize events and create personable relationships with their patrons. The atmosphere was relaxed, with little formality and expectation. My server, Christine, was forward and jovial, giving the impression that I was at a friend’s house rather than a restaurant. When she found out it was my first time there, she came out with a bottle of limoncello and poured me a shot. It was a nice gesture, and typical of how welcoming and friendly a restaurant The Big Ragu is.

This restaurant has the welcoming atmosphere and honesty of a simple country place with the craftsmanship of high end and expensive food. I would suggest The Big Ragu to anyone who is looking for a great meal without the (sometimes) pretentious feel and expensive price tag of many of its contemporary restaurants.