Everything, I should say. Especially if it is gorgeous artisan cheese found less than a 5 minute walk away from one’s doorstep. In the beginning of my Toronto life I was bemoaning the sad lack of decent cheeses in the neighbourhood. Little did I know that with my unerring foodie’s instinct I would very soon succeed in renting an apartment right beside a new-born local cheese heaven! Nancy Peppler opened her cheese stall at Harbord Bakery only this February. She is there in person four days a week and she also provides cheese-trays and catering service on request. So every time I come for the cheese I notice plenty of regulars queuing up and trying Nancy’s cheeses - usually more than a dozen of them, both local artisanal ones and great international varieties.

I have a long-standing relationship with cheese but it’s only at Nancy’s that I have had an opportunity to taste an incredibly delicious Australian “Roaring Forties” blue cheese; a perfectly balanced sweet-and-salty creation with a silky creamy texture. Or a venerable mature Dutch orange Beemster, crumbly and full of flavour.

Nancy’s selection usually includes a few fine seasonal cheeses that cannot be obtained the rest of the year. This summer she is bringing in plenty of Ontario sheep milk cheese: elegant soft Paradiso (modelled on Italian cow-milk Taleggio), herb-and-spice coated crumbly Piacere (I find it needs a drizzle of good olive oil before serving as it is slightly dry), aged and hard Pecorino style Toscano – all from Monforte Dairy.

Although Canadian goat cheeses are much less rare, there are some of them that are pronouncedly summery too, like the bijou Salt Spring Island fresh goat cheese from British Columbia – so pretty one is almost reluctant to eat it. It comes with bright-coloured edible organic flowers on top, but also with basil and olive oil, organic garlic and even minced black truffles (the latter just costing a couple dollars more).

Of course Nancy has plenty of other more traditional goat cheeses too, like flavourful Chèvre Noir, that has been made in Québec since 1989 (oops, the informative link is French-only here, sorry) or exquisite Paillot de Chèvre modelled on the famous French cow-milk Chaource (the list of Québec goat cheese varieties can be found here – but French-only again).

Some other extraordinary cheeses from Québec are usually on display too, such as sinful and absolutely luscious Riopelle triple-crème with a seductive buttery finish. Amy Pataki from the Toronto Star has recently recommended this in her 17 best foodstuffs to try-before-you-die list. Riopelle (named after the well-known Québec painter that used to live in the same Ile-aux-Grues island where the dairy-fromagérie is situated) is especially good with summery sparkling wine, such as German Sekt, Italian Prosecco, French Crémant, Portuguese vinho verde and so on.

By the way, cheese-and-wine pairing is another of Nancy’s strengths that she acquired during her training at the Cheese Education Guild. She always gives her customers a short printed info slip on the cheese they buy (very convenient, so as not to forget all these new names) that includes serving and conserving suggestions and also briefly outlines the main facts about the cheese in question. So visiting Nancy’s Cheese is not only a pleasure but an education as well - as I always say to myself, having splurged and spent yet another twenty bucks on some wonderful cheese specimens.

Nancy can be found at the Harbord Bakery (115 Harbord Street) Thursdays from 10am to 6pm, Fridays and Saturdays from 9am to 6pm, and Sunday from 9am to 4pm. Customers can reach her at the store by calling 416-922-5767.