The last I time I found myself walking east on Mill Street towards the historical buildings of The Distillery District, I noticed that they are almost hidden by new condo construction. Only the tops of its tallest buildings provided reassurance that I was indeed walking the correct way. By the time I arrived at the main entrance, Trinity Street, the modernity of the half-finished condo receded from view, replaced with historic buildings and wonderfully Victorian pedestrian-only lanes that look and feel very different from the rest of Toronto.

Originally the Gooderham and Worts Distillery, one of the largest distilleries in the world during the 19th century, the old Victorian Industrial buildings are now filled with galleries, boutiques and restaurants. Thanks to the new owners’ refusal to lease any space to chains or franchises, it’s an excellent chance to get away from the usual garish Starbucks, McDonald’s and Quiznos signage that increasingly dominates most Toronto neighbourhoods. The restaurants and eateries that have established themselves in The Distillery have great food, atmosphere and dynamic variety.

My first stop is always Balzac’s (The Pumphouse, building #60, 416-207-1709), a two story café at the end of Trinity Street on the left (on the right if you’re coming from the parking lot just south of the district). While waiting in line to grab a cup of tea and a pastry in the busy café, I usually spend the time gazing at the original brickwork, high ceilings, fantastically large chandelier and oversized art deco posters. If it’s a nice day, I sit outside and people watch - Balzac’s patio looks out over the largest piazza at The Distillery.

Recently, in order to learn more about the buildings of The Distillery, we took one of the tours available at the Distillery Visitor Centre (1-866-405-8687). The Visitor Centre is located inside Segway of Ontario on Distillery Lane. A one hour (or so) walking tour costs $15 plus tax. The tour also included a visit to SOMA Chocolate & Gelato and the Mill St. Brewery. The tour guide focused on the history and people of The Distillery and the original function of every building, plus some interesting trivia, for example, the tumbled brick cobblestones underfoot are not original to the district - they’re from Cleveland, Ohio and were laid in recent years during the transformation. As well, I usually grab a copy of distilled, a full colour guide that includes listings, an event calendar and an easy to read map of the district, available at the visitor centre.

Although the tour included samples of wonderfully dark chocolate from SOMA and wee tasters of organic beer from Mill St. Brewery, it was time for a meal. Since we took the tour on a Sunday morning, we had an incredible brunch buffet ($23 plus tax, only available on Sundays) at The Boiler House (Building #46 The Boiler House Complex, 416-203-2121).

The modern, sophisticated restaurant has heavy wood tables, two-story ceilings and a 22 foot long wine rack behind an equally long bar, with a jazz band playing on the mezzanine level. Since it was such a beautiful day, we ate on their large patio. All of the buffet items were delicious and freshly prepared. Each time I went back to the buffet new surprises appeared; everything from prime rib and bone-in ham to green salads, smoked salmon, bagels, all things breakfast and many desserts, including crème brûlée. Their bathrooms are super cool and worth checking out - they have taken the idea of airplane bathrooms to a new luxurious height, each a completely private room, sink included.

On a different visit I was in the mood for something lighter, and chose to have a sandwich at Café Uno (Distillery Lane, Bldg 32, Unit 102 416-980-2828). Sleek and modern fittings are juxtaposed with the heritage interiors, and visible ductwork complement the marble topped tables and gray lucite chairs. Even an empty latte bowl looks like Italian art in this setting. Their ham and cheese sandwich ($7.95), served on ciabatta and grilled in a sandwich press, was artfully arranged on a plate, with melted cheddar oozing from each bite. Flavourful ripe slices of tomatoes are nestled in between generous amounts of ham. Café Uno also offers thin crust pizzas, gelato, pastries, coffee, tea and a wide selection of cold drinks. Service is friendly and relaxed.

Le Crêperie (Building #47 Unit 102, The Cannery 416-203-1590) offers savoury, sweet and breakfast crêpes ($4.25 to $8.50), along with coffee, a wide selection of loose-leaf teas, pop, juice and water.

Other dining options include Pure Spirits Oyster House & Grill (Building #62 A -The Pure Spirits Building, 416-361-5859) - a friend recommends the oyster sampling plate, Archeo (Building #45, The Boiler House Complex, 416-815-9898), a friendly Italian restaurant, the Mill Street Brew Pub (Building #63, The Paint Shop, 416-681-0338) and Perigree Restaurant (Building #59 104, The Cannery, 416-364-1397), where patrons list their food preferences and a blind tasting menu of several courses is prepared for them.

On Sundays there is a small open-air market at the corner of Tank House Lane and Market Lane - tables filled with tempting pies, jams and jellies, fruits and vegetables, and other delicious gourmet foods.

On my way out, I usually stop at the Brick Street Bakery (Building 45A, The Boiler House Complex). Although there is usually a lineup out the door, their baked goods are completely worth it. Every time I mention Brick Street Bakery to somebody, they have their own favourite recommendation; sandwiches, meat pies, sausage rolls, pastries or artisanal bread. Depending on my mood, I go for their sausage rolls or a chocolate croissant.

The Distillery District is located at 55 Mill Street, south of King Street West at Parliament street. Ample parking is available, and it’s a quick walk from the 504 King streetcar.