The Rectory Café
102 Lakeshore Avenue, Ward’s Island
416-203-2152
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip and beer: $75.00

Canada’s Aboriginal people regarded the Toronto Islands as place of repose and spiritual renewal. The Mississauga First Nation, understandably enough, still lays claim to the area; for the Islands offer a tranquil escape from the tumult and stench of the city centre. On a heavenly June day, I and my lady friend use bicycles to explore its leafy pleasures.

After pedaling around the island’s perimeter, searching for the ghost at Gibraltar Point, taking in the charming cottage gardens on Algonquin Island, and playing strenuous nude volleyball at Hanlan’s Point, we are ready for rejuvenating food and drink. And so we coast along the boardwalk to the Rectory Café on Wards Island, one of only two lakefront buildings that survived demolition by the city in 1960s.

Previously, the Rectory was a private home, a priest’s residence and an annex to a seniors’ centre. Eventually it became a sort of hippyish, laid-back bakery whose hours of operation were somewhat erratic. Four years ago it came under new ownership. Its interior was completely refurbished and it is now a full-fledged restaurant as well as serving as an art gallery.

But on this windless, cloudless afternoon, it is the Rectory’s grounds that allure us. This shady, verdant retreat must surely have the loveliest patio in Toronto. Pine and larch trees surround us. Nestled amid all this foliage, the back patio is like a forest glade where leaping nymphs might stop for an imported beer and a grilled salmon. Vases placed on the wrought iron tables hold beautiful country flowers, undoubtedly plucked fresh from the garden. The Don Valley and Gardiner expressways may as well be a thousand miles away.

In keeping with the island spirit, I select Jerk Chicken ($18) for my meal. Our waiter informs me that the recipe comes directly from Jamaica. The chef – Helder Cabrel, formerly of Kalendar - learned it from a chef who learned it in a Jamaican hotel. The chicken has benefited brilliantly from all this education: this is one moist and marvelously marinated bird, served with jasmine rice and a baby spinach salad.
My companion orders the Rectory Vegetable Wrap, that’s a spinach wrap, sprouts, grilled Portobello mushrooms, guacamole and chevre, thoughtfully accompanied by a marinated cucumber salad ($12). She comments that it’s the best vegetable wrap she’s ever wrapped her mouth around. I notice the French and British tourists are enjoying the lamb burgers and Alberta strip steak sandwiches. But, as well as the wrap, there are many options here for vegetarians or for those whose carnivorous impulses have been dulled by the peaceful surroundings.

After a few beers we feel somewhat marinated ourselves and order coffee and dessert to cut through the heat and alcohol-induced drowsiness. We decide to compare a chocolate hazelnut cake ($7) provided to the restaurant by Luisa, an island resident, with a Callebaut dark chocolate brownie ($6.50) created by the Rectory’s own pastry chef. The warm, glistening brownie, rich with pecans and walnuts wins easily over the worthy but rather pedestrian cake.

Our meals were substantial, but not from the entrée section of the menu, which at the time we were guests was only being served on weekends. I understand, however, that full service will be extended shortly. The Rectory is open from 10 am to 9 pm (10 pm Fridays and Saturdays) and is by all means worth that journey across the water.

As the afternoon wanes, we leave to board the ferry. It is time to return to the grinding, dangerous struggle of life in the Corridor. We gaze longingly at the island as it recedes into the distance like a hazy dream. We have nothing left of our time there except for our perfumed memories.