Fressen
478 Queen Street West
416-504-5127
Dinner for two with all taxes, tip, and a glass of wine: $45; Brunch for two with all taxes, tip, and juice or coffee: $30

My readers will have to forgive my punning. In reality, I was unsure of what I thought of Fressen until recently. My first two visits to the renowned vegan restaurant had resulted in a lukewarm impression. The first occasion was a light dinner, starting with avocado and spinach blinis ($9). The corn salsa stood out amidst the other flavours, but made for a poor contrast to the soft depth of the spinach patties. The barley and potato gnocchi ($9) somehow ended up tasting like sourdough bread, which actually went rather well with the understated pesto. The chunks of asparagus were a good addition, firm and not overpowering, but nothing in particular stood out about the meal. From the portions (small) and the presentation (decorative), I had expected more.

Hardly deterred, I opted for brunch instead. After all, hundreds of telephone-pole posters proclaiming “Vegan Waffles, Mmm Mmm” along Spadina wouldn’t steer me wrong, would they? I ordered just that – waffles galore. When contemplating whether to order a side, my server confided “You know how our dinner options are usually small? We overcompensate with our brunches.” The spelt and barley waffle ($9) was certainly better than many, but it seemed to lack the heaviness and depth that make waffles as much a dessert as a breakfast, tantalizing even in roadside truck-stop form. The texture was light and airy, with scattered powdered sugar and plenty of maple syrup to pour over the triangles of fluffiness. Apple slices emerged from the waffles baked and warm, reduced by the iron nearly to sauce. Still, the waffles left me wanting. The fresh watermelon, cantaloupe slices, and pineapple cubes underneath the waffles were delectable and sweet, but not quite enough to round off my appetite. So the next time I went, I did order a side.

This time, I started with a jicama salad. ($4) The jicama slivers on top were reminiscent of potato sticks, but hardly as greasy and of a lighter taste. The slices of apple had a pleasing crunch that matched the texture of the toasted cashews. While the entire salad was good, I got a bit too excited over the toasted cashews. (Here is where the reader can insert their own joke about my enthusiasm for warm nuts.) I loudly announced to my friend across the table how they seemed to be toasted individually, with a deep brown cast to the outside of each one.

Next was a main course of corn fritters ($9) which came with toast, roasted potatoes, salsa, guacamole, and a small salad. An unlisted accompaniment seemed to be two tiny muffins, which arrived before either of our main dishes. Maybe they weren’t actually part of the meal, who knows? We certainly didn’t want to complain about free food. On top of that, they were evenly baked and soft, a far cry from the crumbly and dry muffins I have become accustomed to as morning pick-me-ups.

While the corn fritters themselves were enjoyable, a better-than-veggie-burger patty with a strong taste of sweet potatoes, it was one of the sides that truly sold me. The toast, salsa, guacamole and salad were all up to scratch, but the roasted potatoes were the best by far. The rosemary clung to the outside of the wedges, whose insides were nearly as soft and creamy as mashed potatoes. Instantly, I had moved on from my brief fling with the cashews, and was now pursuing a more committed, in-depth infatuation with the five potato wedges that rested so humbly beside the fritters, quietly concealing their richness beneath a skin of starch.

Last came the faux French toast ($9,) dressed to impress with breading. The inside tasted like the genuine article, soft nearly to the point of squishiness. The outside carried a slight cinnamon taste and a crunchy texture. Just as with the waffles, the fruit beneath was fresh and unsweetened. Our pineapple-strawberry-lemonade ($5) reminded me of the 90’s drink fad of Orbitz, with tiny pineapple circles suspended amidst lemon balm leaves and strawberry slices, but infinitely more palatable than novelty flavourless circles floating in sugar water.

Perhaps Chef Stephen Gardner’s efforts to adapt and outdo himself, with the menu changing to reflect availability, aren’t always bulls-eye, or perhaps simply third time’s the charm at this oh-so-hip vegan eatery. Either way, Fressen forces you to try new dishes. Even when you thought an item was old and familiar, it turns out the Fressen version is more exotic than you would have ever expected.