Posted by Greg Clow in in the papers, news and media on June 9, 2007 at 4:58 pm

While it's true that the opinion of a restaurant reviewer for a major daily paper can have a strong influence on the success or failure of a new place, it seems a bit tacky for said reviewer to brag about their influence in print. But somehow, I'm not surprised to see Joanne Kates doing exactly that in a sidebar to her review in today's Globe & Mail, where she connects a supposed drop in quality at Colborne Lane to her positive review a couple of months ago. Because apparently, all it takes is a few kind words from Ms. Kates to cause a kitchen to become completely overwhelmed by a popularity that they would not have attained otherwise.

If that really is the case, I guess Tom Thai can rest easy, because his recently opened Foxley Bistro gets a somewhat mixed review. While Kates is fond of his raw creations, she's not so hot on the cooked stuff:

Thai is adept at such a commonplace as roast Cornish hen; he moistens its flesh with a citric zing thanks to lemongrass marinade, which marries well with crisp skin.

But the other cooked food lacks delicacy. Grilled side ribs with caramelized shallot glaze have a thick dark sauce that recalls molasses, so heavy that it overwhelms the meat flavour. Grilled king fish with almond curry wrapped in banana leaf is bland fish slathered in bland almond paste, which doth not a charming curry make.

Also in the Globe:

• Beppi Crosariol hypes up a few rosés from today's Vintages release, as well as a couple of reds & whites, and a very fine sounding (and expensive) cask strength Scotch.
• Lacy Waverman is all about the pasta.
• Deirdre Kelly has a bad case of BBQ envy.
• Liz Allemang checks out the seriously strict guidelines being applied to vendors at the new local-certified farmers markets.
• Sasha Chapman visits Brad Kurtenbach of Kensington Market Organic Ice Cream in his new digs on Palmerston just north of Queen Street West.

Over in the National Post, Gina Mallet eats a lot of eggs as she reviews of week of breakfasts, with visits to The Senator, Over Easy, Pain Perdu, Noon, Annona, Cajun Corner, Joy Bistro and Wee Tara. And as any die-hard diner aficionado would predict, she got the worst breakfast at the most expensive joint:

I go to Annona (opens daily at 6:30 a.m.), the restaurant in the Hyatt Regency. For $20, I get a mound of wrecked (scrambled eggs) overcooked with little pieces of cooked lox, capers, breath (chopped onions) -- the dish is overwhelmingly salty. Multi-grain toast is without the axle grease (butter). The tanned moojuice (cafe au lait) is tepid. My companion has a shiny, leathery omelette, squeeze one (glass of OJ) and OK java. When I want an on the city (water), I have to ask one of the soup jockeys to stop hoovering and get me one.

Mallet fans will also be happy to note that she has recently started a blog, with today's post being an addendum to her breakfast adventures.

Also in the Post:

• Adam McDowell marks the end of The Sopranos with an Italian veal sandwich showdown.
• Suburban culinary travellers Jon Bricker and Kate Swoger head to the Pacific Mall in Markham for some all-you-can-eat hot pot at Rolling Pot.
• Michael Vaughan checks out some rosés from today's Vintages release, and finds all but a few to be lacking. And if you're looking for something to eat with your wine, Vaughan also tells you where to get the best deals on fresh lobster.
• Jason Chow previews the New Vintage Wine Festival kicking off this weekend in Niagara.
• In the Weekend Post section, Alena Schram decides 40 years in the kitchen is enough and tells her husband it's time for him to take over, while Bonnie Stern takes inspiration from the hit indie film Waitress and bakes a bunch of delicious pies.

There's no review from Amy Pataki in today's Toronto Star. Instead, she offers up a list of 17 foods to try before you die, and unlike most similar lists, it doesn't include any insects or fermented fish or other such nasties. The edgiest item she suggests is horsemeat, and she also includes such common but pleasant items as truffles, real whipped cream, and afternoon tea. (Which reminds me: the caption writer deserves a good smack for calling it "high tea" below the photo of the version served at the Windsor Arms.)

Also in the Star:

• Gordon Stimmell completely ignores the numerous rosés in the Vintages release, and reviews five good ol' reds and whites instead.
• Marion Kane travels to The Church in Stratford where chef Amédé Lamarche is doing a bit of the molecular gastronomy thing.