Posted by Paul Wernick in cajun, restaurant review on May 24, 2007 at 7:24 am

There is a house in New Orleans
They call the Rising Sun
And it's been the ruin of many a poor boy
And God I know I'm one

Cajun Corner
920 Queen Street East (at Logan)
416-703-4477
Dinner for two with beverage, all taxes and tip: $20

I spent a great deal of time in the House of the Rising Sun during my days as a roaming gambler. I can’t say it ruined me. As a matter of fact I returned again and again to satiate my sinful desires. Yep, couldn’t get enough of the place. They served great food there as well: gumbo, jambalaya, and dirty rice. Well, now I’m back home doing 9-to-5, living the grey flannel life (gitchy gitchy yah yah da da!) and while I miss the fleshpots of New Orleans, I miss that city’s cuisine even more. But much to my delight I notice Cajun Corner in hip and happening Leslieville.

Cajun Corner is run by the friendly husband and wife team of Glen and Karen Cosburn, Torontonians who met in New Orleans. The Cosburns feel about New Orleans the way the lame and halt feel about Lourdes. After her fourteenth visit there, Karen decided to create a little of the Big Easy right here in Hogtown. Auspiciously enough, there were no distributors of Louisiana food items in Toronto and soon a thriving business was born.

Cajun Corner stocks a large inventory; packaged foods and seasonings as well as fresh meat including andouille sausages and alligator fillets. The Mardi Gras masks, beads and Zydeco CDs make fun, inexpensive gifts. And the kids might find a genuine Voodoo doll more interesting than Barbie.

The building itself has a tin ceiling, painted brick walls and wrought iron tables, giving it a cozy, antiquarian feel. At the back is “Miss Karen’s Catfish Kitchen” from which Miss Karen serves a different special everyday. This Friday the specials are Gumbo Ya Ya and Catfish Tchoupitoulas – that’s fresh broiled catfish smothered in a tasso and shrimp cream sauce, served over rice with collard greens. Unfortunately, a ravenous lunch crowd has gobbled it up by the time I arrive.

I opt for the catfish Po’boy sandwich instead - a fillet of Mississippi catfish coated in seasoned cornmeal, then pan fried and served on a baguette with remoulade, tomatoes and lettuce. Bottom feeders never tasted so good. Gumbo Ya Ya is a roux-based stew usually involving chicken and smoked sausage. But the ingredients can vary on any particular Friday.

All the food at Cajun Corner is freshly made to order and completely authentic to Cajun traditions. Karen can even fry up some chicken if you like. On the weekends they serve their famed beignets. Beignets are small, fried pillows of pastry covered in confectioner’s sugar – a French doughnut if you will. Savour them with a cup of real Café du Monde coffee and chicory blend. That’s the roast essence of New Orleans you’re drinking.

There are only two wrought iron tables, so be prepared to takeout. And you can afford to takeout a lot - the prices are remarkably modest, even if you’ve been ruined by the House of the Rising Sun.