In southwest France, under the looming Pyrenees Mountains, sits the town of Bayonne. A thin channel cuts through the intimate downtown, patrons sitting at outdoor tables all along the water. Cobblestone roads weave here and there, revealing grand cathedrals, hidden restaurants, and boulangeries.

What I remember most about Bayonne was the action around these bakeries, and the image of so many residents walking home with a baguette. It was nearly everyone; you wouldn’t go home without first buying a baguette. It is the quintessential image of France.

In Toronto you might spot a baguette under a briefcase on the streetcar, or sitting in a basket strapped to a moving bicycle, but it’s not the same.

Baguettes aren’t held in the same light here. (A bakery near my house doesn’t even stock them!) But it’s also because the taste of a French baguette is unsurpassed. Here, they differ depending on where they are made.

During the past year or so, in the throes of an addiction to cheese, I have had my fair share of baguette. In supermarkets some were bland, some were okay. Trying to choose something healthy, I opted for multigrain, but it lacked that distinct baguette flavour. Others were just too crusty.

My search for pure French baguette ended two weeks ago at the St. Lawrence Market. There I found Stonemill Bakehouse. I knew something was up as the line at the cash register was at least 25 people long. The vast majority held a baguette. My fiancée and I followed suit. At home the baguette, paired with Riopelle and red grapes, instantly transported us back to Bayonne.

It was delectable. The crust was just crisp enough, the inside was flavourful and moist, and there was a tiny hint of butter. Stonemill calls it “artisan baguette” and at first taste it is subtly clear that it is superior. I went back to the St. Lawrence Market, on the lower level, to take a few photos of the bakery. It was a Tuesday and peaceful compared to the mayhem of a Saturday morning. Behind the counter was Don Rodas, who said Stonemill’s baguettes were very Parisian in style. Around him were customers he addressed by name.

Stonemill president Gottfried Boehringer told me the baguette is the company’s “hidden secret” because it is known for its whole grain breads. I wanted to know what made their baguette stand out from the others I’d had over the past year.

“There are 100 ways to make a baguette,” Mr. Boehringer said. The company wanted to make baguette especially for their Market location. At the outset, about six years ago, it proved a challenge. Mr. Boehringer said they worked on it for several years but ended up hitting a wall. They just couldn’t get it the way they envisioned it.

So three years ago, Mr. Boehringer and a few others visited a handful of Parisian bakeries to speak with their owners. What did they find?

“We learned enough to see there was no wrong way to make baguette,” he said. “Making baguettes isn’t a science. It’s an art.”

Although the boulangeries of Paris had their unique styles, there were a few things in common. Each used a very long fermentation period, each used a special sourdough called “levin,” and each used live cultures (bacteria).

Mr. Boehringer said they returned to Canada with several types of cultures and proceeded to make different baguettes. Eventually they landed the recipe that you’ll find at St. Lawrence Market. Stonemill Bakehouse adds no extra sugar, fat, or preservatives. The company makes baguette knowing that to make the stick of bread stand out from the crowd, one must consider water quality, the type of flour used, and what cultures you settle on.

And you can really taste the difference. This is a Parisian baguette right here in Toronto and while it isn’t likely the only one, it is impressive. For more on the breads of Stonemill, visit their website. The company is well-entrenched in the healthy-eating movement, as boasted by its natural ingredients and whole grains (sour dough being one of them). Their breads are available in most local supermarkets and their baguettes on the lower level of St. Lawrence Market.